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  #37  
Old 24-02-2018
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bonza  bonza is offline
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this is what I got, over 8 years back

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HEAVY-DUT...item3398125227

there is another version that is a bit dearer but the cheaper one as above has a thicker core and thus more efficient
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  #38  
Old 25-02-2018
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Well - I managed to negotiate with the e-bay supplier to get an 85% refund and keep the leaking rad, all in all despite the quality of the product being highly suspect they handled the issue well and quickly refunded. At least I can keep on the road while I source a replacement.

Bonza - thanks for the detail and the link, pretty good price too ($156) and I may go that way, just want to get a response from Adrad on a price, expecting somewhere between $290 and $360 - Yet to make that decision, depends a bit on finances this month.

Mick666 - I am very glad you posted, as I would probably have gone the same way as you did, I would have tried a replacement part and then started looking at countermeasures - You saved me that time and frustration - thanks.

But.. I did carry on and try to investigate the possibility of electrolysis, just for learning as much as anything else. After it all cooled down I dipped a copper rod in the top of the rad and measured the voltage to ground. I was surprised to find just under 400mV - after all my near zero reading with the ground checks externally.

I ended up disconnecting both sides of the battery and still had the same reading from the coolant - so my radiator was a chemical generator. As the coolant was fairly new I didn't think it could be contaminated - but then again, although I did flush it's still an old rusty engine.

Just as a comparison I got an aluminium can and filled it with new coolant and dipped a copper tube into the coolant. Slightly higher reading 450mV from my completely isolated cell - interesting. Not sure what it proves, but I know there's no point in trying to do anything with the vehicle - maybe a different brand of coolant..

Given I'm going back to plastic / ally it's not really a point i'm going to dwell on as the core will be isolated - but nevertheless interesting!
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  #39  
Old 26-05-2018
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My experience with non mopar radiators in a 4.0L i6 has been one where I will never bother... I tried two copper brass within a 3 month period, the second was a warranty job. Guess what? Within weeks, the second cracked... Cut my losses, with a so called specialised radiator installer, ordered a mopar rad at Joe mechanic and have had it running well for 3 years. I have a 23 year old xj. The first rad, the original lasted 13 years, the second lasted 8 years, and now I am on my third mopar. What is it about other rads? I am convinced that the build quality is sheet, and they are not up to the task of handling the cooling requirements of a heavy duty cast iron engine.

Last edited by eksjay; 26-05-2018 at 07:40 PM.
  #40  
Old 08-06-2018
jew086  jew086 is offline
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Default PWR alloy rad

I have a custom made pwr rad made awhile ago it was like $1600 to get made for my winch truck but still never work as had a big winch, and other coolers in front of it, turning 37” treeps down deep sandy outback creeks makes anything hot!! so I move the radiator to the rear and used a big alloy one that takes twin 16”spal fans and it has worked a treat!!

So I have had the PWR one sitting in the garage in the corner doing nothing. I’d like 750 for it. Can’t find any pics on my phone at the moment but if you check out my Facebook racing page and look at the pics there will be a few there, it’s Garden shed Motorsport - Facebook.

https://www.facebook.com/GSM868/phot...243171/?type=3

Last edited by jew086; 08-06-2018 at 02:22 PM.
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