What have you done to your KK this week?

[Wiz.au]

Be a while before I think about selling mine. Still getting it to where I want it. And with that said, ... * LIGHTS *

Also while I was installing new driving lights, I wanted to upgrade the switches, and move the AUX fuel tank gauge and pump switch from the stupid left knee bruising place the PO / installer put it.


Decided on a set of XTM (BCF) 7in.
9in lights were too big, blocked too much air to the radiator.
For the same $99, the BCF lights are waaaaaay better than the Adventure Kings / 4wd SupaCentre OSRAM 'Dominators'
(If they publish my review on the BCF website, read it for all the details.)

First order of yesterday; physically bolt the lights onto the Bull-Bar. Little did I know when I started, this meant removing the winch from it's cradle so I could get tools to the light mounting nuts under the Bullbar!


Then move the AUX Fuel tank gauge to the top left of the dash (beside the CB radio), put it into a new housing with sunshade I've had for a few months now waiting to do this job.


Crawl around and do some wiring.
(That's a long and quite complicated story, but I now have;

• 6x core wire from rear to left front footwell
• 6x core from left front foot well to engine bay breakout terminal strip
• 8x core from left front foot well to right footwell breakout terminal strip
• In left front footwell each multicore cable is terminated with a breakout terminal strip, to enable 'patching' connections between engine bay, rear cargo area and drivers side footwell. Diagrams available on request!

All 'accessories' switching / signalling now run along these three 'channels' to connect everything, front, rear, left, right.

From permanent power off the 8Ga cable from starting battery to DC-DC charger, I put in a twin binding post (also in the left front footwell) and also ran an 12Ga cable to the centre console. This permanent power is switched with a 30A Micro SPST relay with 'Acc' [Cig Lighter feed]. This switched circuit powers the GPS, CB Radio (25w Commercial), 3x USB charger ports, an additional 20Amp Marine Locking Cig Lighter Socket, and the Carlise switchbank.) It also bypasses the PCM, which could eb a good or bad thing, I don't know yet.

Replaced the under bonnet aux light relays with some Micro SPST 30A relays in sockets. (Same as I use on all my motorbike and other gear, so I have plenty, and carry spares everywhere.)

Only had one bad connection on the Lightbar Carlise Switch connection. I pushed the wire through too far and crimped the insulation. As it was a fully insulated socket, I couldn't see it, and it was one of the very few I couldn't solder. Didn't take me long to find it and fix it.

Install a bank of 4x Carlise style switches in an alloy frame:


And they work!


High beam on, lights come on. Works as designed!


The Aux Fuel Tank ('Sub Tank') Carlisle switch turns the gauge on (so it's not on ALL the time, distracting me with bright blue light in my face), and also operates a relay in the rear which powers the electric transfer pump. It was the way the installer did it, minus the RELAY. The main power for the electric transfer fuel pump actually comes off the second 150Ah AUX battery in the rear, 50cm from the pump. Seemed a much better idea than pumping a whole lot of amps from the front of the car all the way down the back over yet another heavy gauge wire.

Anyway,... THE RESULTS:

[doum]

Haven't written for a while but still watching out your news.
Last week I did a tire upgrade going from 245/65/17 general grabbers to the 245/70/17 mighty cooper st maxx! Great aggressive look, little bit more noise ,and I think the crd is drinking more diesel now. Didn't test them yet , only yesterday I drove on snowy mountain fire roads and were perfect.

[J.mohi]

Great write up mate... where did u source the Aux tank from?

[J.mohi]

Originally Posted by Wiz.au

Be a while before I think about selling mine. Still getting it to where I want it. And with that said, ... * LIGHTS *

Also while I was installing new driving lights, I wanted to upgrade the switches, and move the AUX fuel tank gauge and pump switch from the stupid left knee bruising place the PO / installer put it.


Decided on a set of XTM (BCF) 7in.
9in lights were too big, blocked too much air to the radiator.
For the same $99, the BCF lights are waaaaaay better than the Adventure Kings / 4wd SupaCentre OSRAM 'Dominators'
(If they publish my review on the BCF website, read it for all the details.)

First order of yesterday; physically bolt the lights onto the Bull-Bar. Little did I know when I started, this meant removing the winch from it's cradle so I could get tools to the light mounting nuts under the Bullbar!


Then move the AUX Fuel tank gauge to the top left of the dash (beside the CB radio), put it into a new housing with sunshade I've had for a few months now waiting to do this job.


Crawl around and do some wiring.
(That's a long and quite complicated story, but I now have;

• 6x core wire from rear to left front footwell
• 6x core from left front foot well to engine bay breakout terminal strip
• 8x core from left front foot well to right footwell breakout terminal strip
• In left front footwell each multicore cable is terminated with a breakout terminal strip, to enable 'patching' connections between engine bay, rear cargo area and drivers side footwell. Diagrams available on request!

All 'accessories' switching / signalling now run along these three 'channels' to connect everything, front, rear, left, right.

From permanent power off the 8Ga cable from starting battery to DC-DC charger, I put in a twin binding post (also in the left front footwell) and also ran an 12Ga cable to the centre console. This permanent power is switched with a 30A Micro SPST relay with 'Acc' [Cig Lighter feed]. This switched circuit powers the GPS, CB Radio (25w Commercial), 3x USB charger ports, an additional 20Amp Marine Locking Cig Lighter Socket, and the Carlise switchbank.) It also bypasses the PCM, which could eb a good or bad thing, I don't know yet.

Replaced the under bonnet aux light relays with some Micro SPST 30A relays in sockets. (Same as I use on all my motorbike and other gear, so I have plenty, and carry spares everywhere.)

Only had one bad connection on the Lightbar Carlise Switch connection. I pushed the wire through too far and crimped the insulation. As it was a fully insulated socket, I couldn't see it, and it was one of the very few I couldn't solder. Didn't take me long to find it and fix it.

Install a bank of 4x Carlise style switches in an alloy frame:


And they work!


High beam on, lights come on. Works as designed!


The Aux Fuel Tank ('Sub Tank') Carlisle switch turns the gauge on (so it's not on ALL the time, distracting me with bright blue light in my face), and also operates a relay in the rear which powers the electric transfer pump. It was the way the installer did it, minus the RELAY. The main power for the electric transfer fuel pump actually comes off the second 150Ah AUX battery in the rear, 50cm from the pump. Seemed a much better idea than pumping a whole lot of amps from the front of the car all the way down the back over yet another heavy gauge wire.

Anyway,... THE RESULTS:

Great write up mate... where did u source the Aux tank from?

[Tog]

Spent all day trying to fit a rear passenger door lock actuator. Bought one a few months back from Rockauto only to find out tday when I finally got a chance to look at it that it not the right one the power plug is wrong. This in itself would not be a major problem the real issue come from the absolute cocked up system of power windows, unlike a KJ that is quite simple the KK uses 2 steel wire cables when 1 accidentally comes off the runners disaster. There seems to be no information available on this task anywhere I have scoured the net even bought the repair manual (useless) for this job anyway

Sent from my SM-T510 using Tapatalk

[Wiz.au]

Originally Posted by J.mohi

Great write up mate... where did u source the Aux tank from?

Sorry for the delay, I didn't get any notification you had posted a reply/question.

The AUX fuel tank was already in the car when I bought it. Looks like a hand made job. It's certainly not pretty, Not what I would call 'well designed and engineered'. It fits where the spare tyre would normally go, necessitating the rear spare tyre carrier.

I can take some photos of it if anyone wants?

It simply uses an intake welded to the factory fuel filler inlet pipe, so you fill the main tank normally, then pull the fuel bowser nozzle out, angle it nearly straight down, and you can find a second hole which fills the AUX tank (& avoids the 'splash back issue too!).

Then an electric pump operated by the switch in the cab, pumps fuel from the AUX tank into another inlet welded into the factory filler spout, lower than the overflow and second fill pipe for the AUX tank.

Think of it like having "in-flight refuelling". As my main tank gets low, I switch the pump on and refill my main tank from the AUX tank. The second gauge lets me see how much fuel in in the AUX tank.

[WardoXJ]

My KK went from this

To this