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  #78  
Old 25-05-2012
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did you read his question he asked fo a cheap ten amp plug stick welder
so thats how i came to my answer.
grinding the earth plug down just causes probs with your house wiring
and yes i agree that duty cycle is everything
i use a 170 amp coz at around 110 amps it has a 80% duty cycle
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  #79  
Old 09-10-2012
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Murray, if you were to remove the "C" off the end of a d30 front diff and weld on another one what sort of things should I be looking at to do this successfully, I have an inverter arc welder, 200A @ 60% duty cycle, 140A @ 100% duty cycle.
What sort of rods should I use, type and size?
What welding method, ie tack it in several spots and weld all the way around or should it be done in stages?
Will it need to be clamped at all to stop heat distortion?

Should the C be welded to the end of the tube near where the axle enters as well as the diff centre side where they are welded from the factory?

Anything else that you can suggest as I also have access to a larger 3 phase industrial MIG as well.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...HybridAxle.htm

Cheers, JJ
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  #80  
Old 09-10-2012
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JJ stick will be fine
3.25 mm E7016 (wia 16tc)
i would make a alignment jig to tack it on
and back step the welds
i would stand the diff on end so as to weld it as a flat horizontal surface
only weld were it was welded before
i will do up a sketch and proceedure wheii get home and post it up
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Last edited by murray; 09-10-2012 at 11:33 AM. Reason: extra info
  #81  
Old 09-10-2012
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Murray sorry to put this on you but you might need to explain backstepping.
(My post is already long enough).

I agree with Murray about reducing the size of the earth will make you a 1 inch welder. Your welds will lose penetration, structure and the duty cycle will be beyond your wiring to carry. A dedicated circuit is the only way to go about this, properly.

I also canot stress enough the importance of positioning for a good weld. I often dry-run 10 or more times practicing hand position and transitions between hands over and over again to get a good TIG run and then reposition the whole job to a different angle again if that is possible or change to a different handpiece and start all over again - depending on the job.
This applies equally to every type of arc welding.

There are few things more satisfying than running a well structured weld (MMA) - stick with a short arc and little or no spatter and with penetration and structure that is self-cleaning. No chipping needed- the flux just lifts in a beautiful arc from the start of the weld to the end and only needs a very light wire brushing. The ends of the welds should allow feed in of the next rod with no grinding to blend the two runs.

Certain welds require a tack (or jigged as Murray suggests) to hold securely and then a good tidy root pass that can be described as above. They are a thing of beauty.

If anyone is intending to become a serious DIY welder even, may I suggest a visit to the James F Lincoln Arc Welding Institute - they have some beaut resources - like "METALS AND HOW TO WELD THEM" - which will tell you what you can and can't weld although it can get a bit metallurgical in parts but it talks you through the tricky parts especially if you aren't doing it all the time.

Respectfully don't try e-bay it is too exxy. The Institute sells this beautifully hard bound book of about 400 glossy pages for 5USD 50 10USD. and they have lots of other great resources that will help set you up right.
  #82  
Old 09-10-2012
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back stepping as it would be hard to go all the way round in 1 hit
do your first pass weld 1/3 the way round then start the next pass behind the weld you have doneand weld the next 1/3 and finnish on the cold start from the 1st weld this will not only burn this out but also reduce the crater at the weld end
keep going arouind the joint this way
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  #83  
Old 09-10-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Auberon View Post

I agree with Murray about reducing the size of the earth will make you a 1 inch welder. Your welds will lose penetration, structure and the duty cycle will be beyond your wiring to carry. A dedicated circuit is the only way to go about this, properly.
Can you explain this part to me?

Cheers, JJ
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  #84  
Old 09-10-2012
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i wonderd as well
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