OK, here are the steps to the procedure:
1. Remove air filter box – disconnect hose clamps and sensor, pull straight up on the box – it’ll pop right out.
2. Remove wiper fluid bottle – one screw, lift straight up. That cylindrical black thing on the bottom – pull it upwards and off the barb on the bottle.
3. Remove mechanical fan – jam a big screw driver sideways through the holes in the fan pulley and turn the pulley until the screw driver locks against the aircon bracket. From beneath, use a big shifter to undo the fan spigot – it’s a right-hand thread. Withdraw from bottom.
4. Remove shroud - 2 bolts on each side. Radiator hose connected to bottom via crappy plastic clips. 4 more crappy clips holding should a bottom – I find side cutters leaver these out well.
5. Take photos of serpentine belt and pulleys – you’ll be needing these for reassembly.
6. Remove serpentine belt and pulleys – crank the tensioner backwards (loosen tension) and insert a pin into the locking hole on the bottom when they line up(about 3mm in dia). Remove belt. Mark and remove the 2 serpentine pulleys (they are different and need to go back as they were). These have LEFT HAND threads. Remove engine lift bracket and fan pulley assy.
7. Match-mark and remove crank pulley – x4 bolts, tap off gently with soft mallet.
8. Remove timing cover - upper first, then lower.
9. Drain coolant now if you are replacing the water pump – Drain nipple located on bottom driver side of radiator. Open the coolant cap to allow air in.
10. Rotate crank to TDC timing marks line up (well, I think it is actually 90deg ATDC but this is irrelevant for us in this procedure) – the mark on the engine is at 3 o’clock. Check to see that the injection pump marks are lined up – mark on engine located at about 5 o’clock. If it’s not lined up, rotate the crank two full cycles (always rotate an engine in the direction the engine operates). 2 turns of the crank rotates the injector pump 2/3 turns, so you may need to do 4 revs of the crank to line up the injection pump marks.
Note: Strictly speaking, lining up the injection pump like this is not necessary, but I like to know that things have gone back exactly how they came apart! It also means you are not rotating any pulley when the TB is off). The marks on the crank must be perfectly matched. Injection pump maybe a fraction of a tooth off, that’s ok, crank is what’s important. Infact personal, I can’t understand why the injection pump requires timing at all… but that’s a discussion for another day.
11. Mark the cam pulley at 12 o’clock straight through to the center bolt, place a match mark on the timing cover. Make sure the match marks are narrow, less than 3mm wide.
12. Mark the old belt and cam pulley with a dot on the tooth of the belt and a dot on the trough on the pulley at 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock. Do the same with the crank at 11 o’clock or just where the tooth is about to mesh. Repeat this on the HP pump – just where the tooth is lifting out of the sprocket. These marks will allow you to count the teeth on the belt between the cam pulley and crank on one side, and the cam pulley and HP fuel pump on the other. This will ensure that everything is identical when it goes back together.
13. Loosen the tensioner and remove the belt. The cam should just sit there but if at any point it clicks to onside, just get a good grip and move it back to center. Don’t do anything silly like rotate it a full turn etc!
14. Remove inner timing cover.
15. Change the Water Pump – make sure you clean the matting surface on the engine.
16. Install inner timing cover.
17. Install the new tensioner, leave finger tight.
18. Install the belt – crank first, then injector pump, wp, cam and finally tensioner - use an allan key in the tensioner and turn clockwise to relieve tension to slip it on.
19. Check all your timing/match marks. Count the teeth between cam 9 o’clock position mark and crank 11 o’clock position mark you made earlier. Reference this to the corresponding marks on the old belt. Do the same with the cam 3 o’clock mark and the mark on the injection pump pulley.
20. You need to be 100% confident you have the timing right to move on. Near enough is not good enough, it has to be exact! Being out is usually pretty obvious, as it will be by a full tooth etc.
21. When you are happy, tension the tensioner by cranking it counterclockwise until the needle moves into the center of the small ‘U’ shaped cutaway on the tensioners bottom side. A mirror is handy for this. When centered, tighten the bolt to lock. It may take a few goes to get this right.
22. Rotate the engine a couple of revs and repeat step 19 above to check that everything still lines up and that the tensioner is still in the ‘U’. If either is off, redo!
23. When happy, re-assemble the car in the reverse order to dis-assembly.
Bolt Torques
Serpentine belt pulley Bolts – 45Nm
Water Pump Bolts – 32Nm
Inner timing cover bolts – 11Nm
Timing Belt Tensioner - 28Nm
Last edited by Hayesio; 10-09-2014 at 06:47 PM.
Reason: Injection pump is 2/3 to 1 with the cam (not crank), or 1/3 to 1 with the crank.
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