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  #1527  
Old 24-07-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gojeep View Post
Thanks for the input Jason as been going back and forth on it. Especially the tyres size.
Not a problem, it's nice to lend a hand in some way.

Jason
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  #1528  
Old 24-07-2019
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Thank you all for your options on the tyre size.

I will be lengthening the top of the rear guards as they always look out of proportion to the front no matter what tyre size in under there.
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  #1529  
Old 26-07-2019
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Now why I have been looking at choosing my tyre size is that I have always wanted to put my spare under the bed on a cable winch like the donor had. But there is not enough length between the cross members and have the centrally mounted SRT Corsa exhaust in the way as well. Was pretty amazing that the whole exhaust bolted in in the first place, but thinking I might run the resonators wider apart under the chassis rails.
Should I cross right over left so total length will be the same on each side? Otherwise the left has crossed the chassis twice adding extra length and theoretically have slightly more resistance than the right.


If I go for the 30.5" tall tyres, I could just cut out the rear cross member and turn it around so it is not recessed between the chassis rails. That would give me access to the towbar again too!


Been toying with the idea of using a profile that kicks up vertically like the Willys Army trailers.


Now I want to see if the proportions still work if I extend the bed to take the spare wheel. The stock bed length is 2030mm-80" but has lost 175mm-7" due to the cab extension, so gaining some back would be great. I don't want an unbalanced look either that you often get after a cab extension.


This is with the bed long enough to take either sized spare wheel and 65mm-2.5" further behind the axle centreline than stock. The sides are also 3" higher than stock, now level with the top of the ribs running across the back of the cab rather than finishing under them.


The Willys beds have a separate piece under the side which is part of the sub frame. I have it next to the chassis rails here which would be great if I can do this as wouldn't have to raise the floor then. This is because I have raised the chassis rails 100mm-4" to get the stock up travel from the donor suspension.


Added the frame skirts. Starting to look a bit 'bulky'


Thought maybe the stake pockets will help break up the bulkiness of it. This is with three stake pockets the same as the stock Willys bed.


Maybe a step in front of the wheel guard helps like on the pre 53 models?


Raised the step so level with the bottom of the cab rather than under it like stock.


Removed the vertical piece of the bed giving the same height and profile of a stock bed. This will match the stock tailgate I have better and can use pre 53 Chev sides which are available here in Australia and closely match the originals. Will just have to modify them to suit the length.


Last try is cutting 75mm-3" out of the height, but putting the vertical section back in. So overall height is the same as the last shot finishing under the ribs. I also rounded the end of the frame skirt. Least if I do the mock up with cardboard, it costs nothing. Which version looks best and can I get away with the extra bed length to fit the spare in underneath? I will also be lengthening the top of the rear guards to better match the front, so the bed will look a bit shorter too after doing that. Either version will also have the roll along the top edge.


Stock Willys bed for reference.
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Last edited by Gojeep; 26-07-2019 at 02:43 PM.
  #1530  
Old 26-07-2019
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I think the last iteration with the vertical section, level step and rounded tail looks by far the best. The extra length looks great.
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  #1531  
Old 27-07-2019
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One of my main worries since planning this build was how do you protect from the elements, and from sticky fingers nicking your stuff, things in the back? I thought a hard cover would be the best solution, but you lose a lot of height with the head board and tailgate only being as high as the vertical part of the sides. My fridge won't fit when I am camping unless I switch to a draw type one. A taller box type bed, still finishing under the 3 ribs, without the angle part making it wider near the top would be more practical.



Like the ones used on the D100 stepside Dodges. Still have the rolled edge along the sides. I wouldn't do the heavy pressed impressions though and could use 54 Chevy sides and just lift them up more. Which ever way I go I would still use the Willys rear guards to match the front. Not sure how it would look on the Willys though?



Same truck from a different angle and one of the reasons I don't like a too short box either.

Could also build a custom metal trunk to put inside the bed and vent it to hold the fridge and things? Maybe a surplus military crate?
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  #1532  
Old 28-07-2019
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Well I have been taking suggestions on board and tried some out tonight using photopaint. Thanks to all the have been helping with ideas. So I have the rear guard blend into the step like it does on the front and added a rear one as well. Here the front part is level with the bottom of the cab and the rear under the frame skirt I had before.


I left the rear as is and ran the front one under the cab.
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  #1533  
Old 28-07-2019
Edz  Edz is offline
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G,Day Marcus .Found you after action shut down ... For what its worth, maybe make the top tub fold over lip with the same pressings as the cab to continue the lines and seeing as the tub will have smooth side walls swage in outward pressings to continue the cab door style .
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Last edited by Edz; 29-07-2019 at 12:58 AM. Reason: add photo
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