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  #10522  
Old 06-11-2016
SeaComms's Avatar
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Looks good, though I would strongly suggest a damper flip kit to remove it from being the first thing a large rock or tree stump hits..

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  #10523  
Old 06-11-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaComms View Post
Looks good, though I would strongly suggest a damper flip kit to remove it from being the first thing a large rock or tree stump hits..

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I've been looking for a kit to do that, any particular one you recommend?
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  #10524  
Old 06-11-2016
timbotrog  timbotrog is offline
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Default Smittybilt tyre carrier

Quote:
Originally Posted by pete 56 View Post
Hey Nanook another question if you have the time. Was just having a closer look at ur pics. Looks like the OEM rear bumper but do you have a after market tyre carrier? I'm thinking of a similar set up as I want to try and keep the weight down. Any details appreciated...


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Have a look at the Smittybilt XRC/SRC Gen 2 tyre carrier.

It can be used as a stand alone unit or match with either the XRC or SRC Gen 2 rear bars, AEV rear bar, Rubicon 10th anniversary rear bar or the stock plastic rear bar.

It's also a great way to get into the rear bar work bit by bit and save some along the way.

http://www.jeepkonection.com.au/Smit...e-Carrier-Gen2
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  #10525  
Old 06-11-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaComms View Post
Looks good, though I would strongly suggest a damper flip kit to remove it from being the first thing a large rock or tree stump hits..

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I was thinking that myself. I might buy the Synergy one from SBR sometime soon.
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  #10526  
Old 06-11-2016
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Inhad the Synergy one a while back from Double Black along with the replacement tie rod clamp. The Teraflex extended trackbar bolt is not a bad idead either though not sure how tou would torque up the trackbar bolt.

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  #10527  
Old 06-11-2016
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I had the Synergy relocation bracket and it caused cracking of the bracket it was bolted to on the axle housing. The extended trackbar bolt is a much better option although it's hard to find a socket deep enough to torque it up. I used abloody big shifter and three clicks of the elbow to get the torque right.
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  #10528  
Old 06-11-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grahame View Post
I had the Synergy relocation bracket and it caused cracking of the bracket it was bolted to on the axle housing. The extended trackbar bolt is a much better option although it's hard to find a socket deep enough to torque it up. I used abloody big shifter and three clicks of the elbow to get the torque right.
I have the Synergy relocation bracket so I will be keeping an eye on this.
I'm not surprised that the bracket can crack now that I have had a look at it. Everything welded to JK axles is either crappy and / or poorly welded.
This really come to light when I removed my front control arm brackets to fit the Synergy HD ones. What I thought would take some effort to remove required a half hearted grind of one weld and a quick smack with a hammer and they were off.
Taking them off and prepping the axle took less than 10 mins.

Also years ago when I fitted my rear relocation bracket, I was horrified at the couple of lumps of "bird shit" glueing it on. I re welded it before I reassembled it.
Also I think the torquing of the extended trackbar bolt has been covered elsewhere. Use a crows foot at 90 on a torque wrench.
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Last edited by Wazza D; 06-11-2016 at 08:29 PM. Reason: Wrong brand name
  #10529  
Old 07-11-2016
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Rear done! ...For now.


Installed a Rampage tyre carrier and 3rd brake light.

It's simple, robust and cheap. The brake light just clamps between the wheel and the carrier and the carrier is just a steel box with no adjustment.

I put on Bushwacker corner guards, partly for the looks and partly because of stupid people who try to fit shopping trolleys between cars.


The friggin Teraflex hinge... I had to cut and file a bit out of the carrier to get that to fit and cut off the hinge cover sections of the corner guard too.

I replaced the oil drum muffler with a sleeker Rugged Ridge muffler.

The exhaust hangers were a sonnoffabeech to get loose but the rest was really easy. It sounds good at 0-2000 RPM, OK at 2000-4000 RPM and pretty nice above 4000 RPM and you don't notice it at highway speeds until you touch the accelerator.

In the process, I discovered one of the bolts from my exhaust spacers was missing and the leak probably caused the hesitation that I was feeling at low RPM. I think it's time to figure out the easiest way to get my AFE Y-pipe to fit with the Evo bash plates.
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  #10530  
Old 08-11-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by st_za View Post
The exhaust hangers were a sonnoffabeech to get loose but the rest was really easy.
When I replaced my exhaust with an MBRP system it took 2 hours to remove the old one and 40minutes to fit the new system.

I ended up having to spray the hangers with WD40 to help slide them off as they were so tight.

I like the Bushwaker guards. I was thinking of a set for my white one, after looking at yours they will now go on my list. Hopefully my DBOR flares will turn up some time soon so I can do it at the same time.
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