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  #64  
Old 10-06-2010
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Deezelweazel  Deezelweazel is offline
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You have to wait a bit, I only have a SLR camera( i don't like digital crap).
I try to explain better:
The expansion bottle is seperated into internal chambers to prevent cracking. It is difficult to get dirt and air out of it( has to be taken out and flushed very often)
Clean the bottle! Dirt also likes to accumulate in there and a sensor not being able to sense is useless!

You did fine!
- The engine has to run for about 15 minutes to get the air out.
- The thermostat has to open to get the air out!
- During this time until reaching operating temperature you have to refill constantly the coolant system.

Raising the height of the coolant bootle:
get a flexible piece of rubber mat. you can stack and glue them also to gain the needed height. I got the rubber from a hydraulic supplier.
Put the rubber between the inner fender and the coolant expansion chamber. Another 1 cm thick rubber part behind the upper mounting screw to support the upright position. And you are done. very simple...

the radiator relieve valve in the upper left:
Just get a plier and turn it counterclock a half turn! It has a kind of snap seal. Be careful, it can break.
Fill the expansion chamber close to the top. Excess coolant will be pressed out no problem at all.

Last edited by Deezelweazel; 10-06-2010 at 05:02 PM. Reason: adding info
  #65  
Old 10-06-2010
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Deezelweazel  Deezelweazel is offline
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Another hint...

Underhood temperatures are often discussed to my amusement (no offense!).

a short overview:
fuel energy is used in the following way:
- 30% heat in the exhaust
- 30% heat in the coolant
- 5% loss in friction
- 25% usable energy delivered to the rearend

We do have a significant heat problem!

Often used the bonnet vents -some claim lower underhood temoeratures of 5 to 10 degrees.

Is this a significant heat drop in your opinion?
I would like to say no. It is the so called drop on the hot stone( not sure if this is the right expression in australia)

What would you say to a 50 to 100 underhood degree temperature drop?
  #66  
Old 12-06-2010
del97td  del97td is offline
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hi deezal, would just like to say i agree totally with your comments, when i flush the cooling system i add low pressure air to turbulate the sediment and got loads out the first time, i also have a small electric fan on the front hot side of the radiator mainly for 40+ hot days and traffic jams, i have also fitted a z9 oil filter which gives slightly more surface area and an additional oil cooler fitted behind my front bar, my home made front bar also has a cutout to allow airflow through to the intercooler, i fill the overflow bottle nearly to the neck this keeps the coolant just above the heads but will raise the bottle as per your instructions the jeeps temp stays at 90 with a slight creep up to 95 on normal days and 95 to 100 on hot 35+ days yes i've had the heads off but only to change the welch(core) plugs which i managed without taking the turbo off but the back manifold bolts were painful, i've also played with the egr and have it back on at the moment but it is coming off again soon i got better engine response no smoke at all out the back and used 3 tanks of fuel adelaide to sydney and back plus all the driving around that you do as a tourist and no other problems.
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  #67  
Old 12-06-2010
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Deezelweazel  Deezelweazel is offline
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I can feel your pain , bro! the back bolts are definetly a pain!

I will write more on modifications about this engine and there are a lot more fine details to look and to take care about.
But it takes time to take pictures and to present them neat and nice.
I really hope, they are useful for your exterme hot weather conditions. Over here they work with great success. If they are transferrable, it would be a great adavantage for you.
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  #68  
Old 15-06-2010
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You want more airflow through the radiator?

Good,
have a look at the end tanks of the radiator.
Can you see the gaps between the radiator and the front end housing?
Get a two pieces of 8 to 10mm thick rubber mats( the heavy ones)
Cut them in shape and place them between the gaps and the sheet metal.
It will seal that gaps.

Air will be forced to flow through the radiator not through those gaps any longer.
It's neither a big advantage nor does it cost a lot. But we have to grab every advantage we can get.
Small things do sum up!
  #69  
Old 16-06-2010
The Smiths  The Smiths is offline
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Got to say I think the biggest problem is the aircon radiator for airflow/restricting cooling.

I had a 1995 sport model in the UK that had no aircon - never got hot regardless of how much mud it went through, or that the bottom half of the fins had rotted off the radiator.

Now got an 1999 Orvis with aircon and have issues of overheating (well temperature rising more than I like) when combined with mud / heavy towing (even though there is a factory fit auxillary electric fan in the cowl)

Got to say that the electric fan is quite good - my viscous coupling let go on the highway and destroyed much of the cowling, wired the fan so that it was on and it just kept going all day without overheating.
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  #70  
Old 17-06-2010
del97td  del97td is offline
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Default use of2T oil to lube IP

have any you guys read the post on The 4Wd action forum regarding the use of 2 stroke oil at 200:1 ratio to improve the lubrication of the IP since the introduction of low sulphur diesel apparently it started in europe had some tests done in the us of a and all seems well especially beneficial if you have a rotary IP which we have
  #71  
Old 18-06-2010
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I do use 2 stroke since 2 years do avoid wear of the IP.

But the the ratio better be 1:200 instead of 200:1! lol
  #72  
Old 18-06-2010
del97td  del97td is offline
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oops my mistake ,but you know what i meant
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