Fuel Leak

[MuzzaWA]

@JeorgM, the part number F01M101455 is correct.

I paid AU$20 all up for my seal kit at R.Moore & Sons (diesel engineers), local pickup for me in Kewdale WA back in 2014.

Check out the "High Pressure Diesel Injector Pump Seal Replacement" post at http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/sh...d.php?t=105316 (registration required)
Pdf available here: https://1drv.ms/b/s!AuRLwk8K28oBg8wH...Ij66w?e=bTDqYm
Take note of the warnings regarding the hazardous high-pressure output, over 20000 psi. HP Diesel leaks WILL inject into your skin and may be fatal or result in amputation... that is why most workshops will not do the rebuild without testing facilities available.

The seal replacement is a finnicky job. You will need good tools, good eyes, and a methodical approach.

See attached exploded view of the included parts.

[JoergM]

Originally Posted by MuzzaWA

@JeorgM, the part number F01M101455 is correct.

I paid AU$20 all up for my seal kit at R.Moore & Sons (diesel engineers), local pickup for me in Kewdale WA back in 2014.

Check out the "High Pressure Diesel Injector Pump Seal Replacement" post at http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/sh...d.php?t=105316 (registration required)
Pdf available here: https://1drv.ms/b/s!AuRLwk8K28oBg8wH...Ij66w?e=bTDqYm
Take note of the warnings regarding the hazardous high-pressure output, over 20000 psi. HP Diesel leaks WILL inject into your skin and may be fatal or result in amputation... that is why most workshops will not do the rebuild without testing facilities available.

The seal replacement is a finnicky job. You will need good tools, good eyes, and a methodical approach.

See attached exploded view of the included parts.

Thanks a lot for the information. I have not yet been able to get the Jeep started to see if the leak disappeared or if it still persists for various reasons. i might go for the re-furbished option if the leak continues. Was not assuming if I can get it here in OZ. Does not look too complicated though. But i certainly do not want to get anything amputated to save a couple of bucks.

What I realised when I changed the o-rings is that the bracket holding the 2 lines in place is broken. Each side looks a bit different an one has a longer lip gong over the top of the outer line and mine has snapped (wasn't me). It still holds the line in place but it might be that the extreme pressure causes the fuel to sneak thru anyway.

I guess I will find out soon. Thanks again.

[JeanLuke]

You mean the bracket on the front of the engine? I broke mine about 6 years ago when replacing the lines. I have a replacement but never installed it. I question if it is needed. The lines just sit there. They've survived water crossings over the bonnet without issue.

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[MuzzaWA]

Originally Posted by JoergM

What I realised when I changed the o-rings is that the bracket holding the 2 lines in place is broken. Each side looks a bit different and one has a longer lip gong over the top of the outer line and mine has snapped (wasn't me). It still holds the line in place but it might be that the extreme pressure causes the fuel to sneak thru anyway.

The tubes do come too close for comfort to rubbing on the serpentine belt and/or pulley.
The only time to replace it is with the HP pump removed.
Best to order from MB ahead of time...

Bracket – double tube clip for underneath HP pump:
MB P/N A 611 078 12 41
$5.50 + GST each, stocked at Westpoint Star MB

[JoergM]

Originally Posted by MuzzaWA

The tubes do come too close for comfort to rubbing on the serpentine belt and/or pulley.
The only time to replace it is with the HP pump removed.
Best to order from MB ahead of time...

Bracket – double tube clip for underneath HP pump:
MB P/N A 611 078 12 41
$5.50 + GST each, stocked at Westpoint Star MB

Thanks for the additional info, this looks like fuel line rails to keep them aligned. I meant the bracket which holds the line endings where the o-ring sits in place.



On this diagram it is no 11. I searched all different places but could not find the part number. And as I said, ti still holds them in place but I am not sure if it might be enough.

[OffroadSpike]

That bracket, if not properly tightened, will cause leaks on the hoses. It happened to me and I just had to fully tighten the bolt. I haven't found any torque specs, just tighten by feel, and make sure the white rubbers are squished against the pump. Also, make sure both white rubers around hose ends are of the same type. I had an issue from aftermarket hoses that the white rubber was made of different materials, one soft and the other hard, which caused one of the hoses to leak.

[JoergM]

Originally Posted by OffroadSpike

That bracket, if not properly tightened, will cause leaks on the hoses. It happened to me and I just had to fully tighten the bolt. I haven't found any torque specs, just tighten by feel, and make sure the white rubbers are squished against the pump. Also, make sure both white rubers around hose ends are of the same type. I had an issue from aftermarket hoses that the white rubber was made of different materials, one soft and the other hard, which caused one of the hoses to leak.

This my concern. I exchanged the black o-rings but the white ones did not really look that great either. Any chance anyone has the partnumber for the white o-ring and for the bracket. I might have a feeling that this is actually my fuel leak and the fuel just follows the lines before it drips on the swirl flap rail on to the starter motor and then land on my motor block. Since I am in there is would prefer to replace it properly. Unfortunately the diagram does not show any partnumber.