EGR delete wiring

[gibrate1]

I purchased a WG CRD as my first car in 2016. I have discovered that the previous owner performed an EGR delete on my Jeep and didn't sort the electrics (previous owner also removed MIL light). As a result, my car feels sluggish at low RPM's and I have an "EGR valve open" fault code. I need help with the wiring to trick the Jeep into thinking that the EGR is in the closed position.

Please reply with pics of this process.

[JeanLuke]

Originally Posted by gibrate1

I purchased a WG CRD as my first car last year. I have discovered that the previous owner performed an EGR delete on my Jeep and didn't sort the electrics (previous owner also removed MIL light). As a result, my car feels sluggish at low RPM's and I have an "EGR valve open" fault code. I need help with the wiring to trick the Jeep into thinking that the EGR is in the closed position.

Please reply with pics of this process.

See here: http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/....php?p=1628325

[Ben-n-Jo]

Originally Posted by JeanLuke

See here: http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/....php?p=1628325

As above.

Sent from my ZTE T84 using Tapatalk

[JeanLuke]

I'll be clear here. You can swap "minimalist" for "butcher" and get the same meaning. I understand some will not like this method, but this is how I did it and it works...

First, locate the ERG solenoid. It hides up under the accelerator pedal position sensor. Remove the electrical plug. That's an easy sentence to type, but let me tell you that if you have a trained midget monkey now would be a great time to get him:


Solder together a 1k resistor and a 1N4004 diode. Note the orientation of the diode:


Heat shrink over the diode and the end of the wire:


Trim the ends of the resistor and shape them to go into the end of the solenoid plug:


Insert the resistor into the plug. The end with the diode goes into the pin with the grey/green wire.


CONTINUES...

[bodgie]

Novel approach, inserting the resistor in the connector like that. I'd suggest it may be a little problematic long term, I'd reckon you'd be better off soldering this to the wiring to improve reliability.

Jason

[JeanLuke]

Next, using an automotive cable splicer (available from Supercheap, Repco, Bunnings) splice in a short wire and solder in a 470 ohm resistor. Then slide heatshrink tube onto the wire from the diode and solder that wire to the other end of the resistor. I forgot to take a picture of the heat shrink:



Clean up your mess with zip ties and split conduit:


At the solenoid plug, fold the diode alongside the plug. Insert the plug, resistor, diode into a snug piece of heatshrink and shrink it into place. This will stop the resistor from simply falling out. (No picture - it was too tight for space.)

Finally, think more about the wire route than I did! See below. I should have gone under that one, but it was too late when I realised.

[JeanLuke]

Originally Posted by bodgie

Novel approach, inserting the resistor in the connector like that. I'd suggest it may be a little problematic long term, I'd reckon you'd be better off soldering this to the wiring to improve reliability.

Jason

I wanted to leave the plug intact in case I ever want to un-delete it. The resistor & diode at the plug are firmly held in place by heatshrink. I didn't get a picture of that.

EDIT:
But, yes, it is a risk long term. We'll see how it goes. I've located the assembly back up under the accelerator position sensor and zip-tied it all tightly in place. It should stay dry there. I also sealed the end of the heat-shrink over it all to keep out splashes.