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  #1233  
Old 10-12-2017
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skipperau  skipperau is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeanLuke View Post
It was dry because I had washed it with the K&N kit. That said, I am a but suspicious of using the K&N filter in dusty conditions. To date, I have not done any serious dust, but a previous owner sure has (red dust everywhere under the dash and rego papers from Murgon wedged behind the glove box). The K&N was on it when I bought it - it was not my choice. I had the cleaning kit in my shed from a "hot hatch" I own so I thought I might as well use it on my Jeep.

I have just bought a Ryco paper element to throw in when I go off-road and keep the K&N for my daily city commuting.

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If you’re concerned get the slip on pre-filter. It provides an extra degree of security, plus extending the service intervals.


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  #1234  
Old 11-12-2017
Rade32  Rade32 is offline
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Today I fabricate longer rear sway bar links, handmade and powder coated.
They were 9" oem, and now are 11", eye to eye measurement, I have 2" lift kit.
Next week I will do the front links.

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  #1235  
Old 11-12-2017
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Adrian D  Adrian D is offline
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I meant the dryness of the climate, not the filter :P
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Hey I wonder what happens if I plug this wire in therAAAAAGGGGGGHHHH............
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  #1236  
Old 18-12-2017
JeanLuke  JeanLuke is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adrian D View Post
I meant the dryness of the climate, not the filter :P
Noted. I'm going to change to a paper element - and add a snorkel.

This weekend:
  • Changed the LP to HP fuel line (because I broke the air bleed valve a few weeks ago). Bought a Merc one for the OM612 engine from MB spares. It was identical, except for a new style of clip on the HP pump inlet port end. It's a press-to-release in place of the U-clip. Press the button and it expands the two clip arms.
  • Changed the fuel filter. The trick here was to undo the clamp and remove the return line off the temperature valve to allow it to twist enough to get it off and on.

Interesting find - the LP fuel lines run through a couple of plastic clips on the front of the engine block, underneath the HP pump. They are damn hard to open with the radiator and fan in place. I ended up breaking them both and then holding the replaced line (and the old one) in place with zip ties. They run only about 10mm away from the serpentine belt. I'm a little uncomfortable with that, but it seems to be the way they are. I guess the belt is unlikely to move back and forward, it will vibrate up and down. I added a bit of split-conduit for protection.
  #1237  
Old 18-12-2017
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Adrian D  Adrian D is offline
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Diagnosed my transmission mount as bad: I had a bad drone at exactly 1700 rpm, stationary or moving made no difference.
It's pretty funny, as Tpap had problems with his viscous cooler a few months after I had and now, a month after he has problems with the transmission mount, mine went bad.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barefoot
Hey I wonder what happens if I plug this wire in therAAAAAGGGGGGHHHH............
  #1238  
Old 18-12-2017
JeanLuke  JeanLuke is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adrian D View Post
Diagnosed my transmission mount as bad: I had a bad drone at exactly 1700 rpm, stationary or moving made no difference.
Hmmmm. My drone is the same but at 1900rpm. I wonder if it's the same cause. How did you diagnose it?
  #1239  
Old 19-12-2017
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skipperau  skipperau is offline
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That feeling you get when you know you’ve solved the overheating issue. [emoji23]




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