Bang Crunch

[ren0vator]

Really keen to get home this weekend
So drove most of the night & pulled up for a kip just before sunrise
Almost home & pulled over for a coffee
Hmmmm, that can't be good


What's it been?
Three months trying to fix the transmission stuff up and now this?
To say I was fuming would be an understatement
Anyway, 6 litres of water and an hour of stop/start later
I finally made it home

Pull the grille, bonnet latch, vertical stays & top horizontal support
Why a rivet in the washer bottle?


Remove intercooler
Disconnect hydraulic lines from bottom of fan
Drain fluid, I pressurized the system with compressor
There's an electrical connection on the bottom left too
Remove front hydraulic cooler
Removing a couple of bolts allowed me to pull air-con condenser forward
Tied it up to the bull bar
Disconnect air-con drier & push backwards
Disconnect main feed pipe to hydraulic pump
Lift, jiggle, lift, grunt, lift, coerce ....
To make the unit lighter you could disconnect the shroud from the radiator



All this because of plastic
Corrugated dirt roads don't help I suppose


Always wondered what happened to that miner bird


Boys at Natrad reckon there's one in Brisbane

[Clarky]

Just a thought
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Aluminum-...53.m1438.l2649

[ren0vator]

Originally Posted by Clarky

Just a thought
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Aluminum-...53.m1438.l2649

Thanks Mate
Already ordered one this morning
Keep it in mind

[08crd]

Originally Posted by Clarky

Just a thought
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Aluminum-...53.m1438.l2649

Is there one for the 3.0L diesel?

[Clarky]

Originally Posted by 08crd

Is there one for the 3.0L diesel?

No, but the only differences is the radiator fill cap (CRD doesn't have one) and the bottom hose connection is 2mm larger in diameter then the CRD. Nothing that couldn't be sorted out.

[ren0vator]

Identified three oil leaks on my tranny

1.Rear left of the case there is a park lock mechanism
Two new O'rings into the large bore at the bottom of the photo
O'rings could be accessed after removing valve body, but would be PITA


2. Dipstick tube
For some reason the new seal is twice the size ???
Right part number, just way too large
That TSB must include a hole saw
Reinstalled original rubber grommet with sealant
Could be done without transmission removal


3. Bellhousing Breather
There is a plastic breather on top of the bellhousing
Solid fix would be to tap a thread and install some alloy barbs
I just re-fitted the original plastic barb with a heap of sealant
The plastic breather can only be successfully removed with transmission disassembly

[ren0vator]

The bellhousing to pump sandwich plate had plenty of build-up
Could be washed carefully, kit came with a new one anyway


Sub Assemblies Laid Out


Set the front clutch packs into the housing


Special tool compresses piston into housing


Ensure the snap rings end gap is next to an housing upright


Set the oil pump onto some wooden blocks and lower the bellhousing down


Pull the oil pump into place with some bolts
This ensures correct orientation


Complete front section


The front clutch packs are called B1 & B2
It was a hot day & I'd had a couple of beers by now
Started singing about Bananas in Pajamas
So I went and lay down for a while

Next section is to assemble the rear case
First up is the park pawl and gear


A piston & couple of clutch packs into the rear of the case


The middle section is the output shaft
It contains one-way clutch & a small clutch pack


Piston and snap ring once again requires special tool


Complete output shaft


Now line up all the clutch packs inside the rear housing


Line up all the planetary sets on the output shaft


Set the rear case vertically


Next lower the output shaft into the rear case
There is not much room inside and we
need to line up two clutches, one spline and get your fingers out
Be prepared


Set the bell housing on blocks & install the input shaft
Clamp in place with vice grips and a rag


Rear of the input shaft
Look at all this mess of gears & clutches


Now lower the bell housing onto the rear case
This is a two man job unless you've got a back of steel


I finally figured out the clutch packs needed to be lined up on an angle
The one-way clutch is a pain in the arse at this stage


You'll need a 30mm double hex deep impact socket
to tighten the output shaft coupling nut


The rear of the transmission needs supporting
so we don't rip the engine mounts to pieces


Not a difficult job but definitely complex and time consuming
Forget about the OEM manual Use the ATSG one
It details rebuilding in a step by step process and
includes all measurements & torque settings
I lost count of how many beers I had on this job
Budget for at least a dozen