advice on replacing waterpump

[Roler]

Originally Posted by ApacheResistance

I think you're referring to my rambles.

I actually have a lot of stuff saved in notepads on my computer that i just copy/paste from. Seems like people are always asking about topics i can just copy/paste something into.



Well you learn something new everyday. I'll make a note of the tensioner being on the alternator on the RHD XJs.

I know the alternator is where my A/C compressor is located. I honestly don't know know where your A/C compressor is.

I think i only had to take one bolt out of the power steering pump bracket, and then i could slide the waterpump in and get the bracket over it then bolt it back in. I have a bunch of pictures on my phone of it, but i don't want to clog your thread up.

Thats correct: your LHD AC compressor is where our (RHD) alternator lives. Our compressor is down underneath in the left hand front , down by that darn power steering pump bracket thing. One bolt that needs to come off to remove that bracket is blocked by the compressor, so therefor the comp needs to be removed as well.

Any idea/thoughts on that gasket shape(see above)?

[ApacheResistance]

Do you happen to have any pictures? I would probably be able to explain it easier if i could actually see it. (I can't for the life of me find any pictures of under the hood on a RHD XJ.)

Get the gasket and put it over the waterpump. Does it look like the teardrop shape is going to block anything? Do you have any pictures of the gasket? I normally use RTV on gaskets as well (shun me) just as a double security. Don't use much though. Just a nice thin layer on each side.

[Roler]

will try pic tomorrow. It doesnt block anything but it circumferens the impeller for about 75 percent I'd say, all because of that teardrop shape. So a short section along the impeller is not directly surrounded by gasket, the out edge of the pump is though. Will take a pic tomorrow.

[TheOoz]

Whether you use the modified barbed fitting (above) or the original/new inlet tube, just make sure you use a quality sealant designed for that fitting.

Something like:

http://www.permatex.com.au/_products...lant-1815.aspx

I used tape on mine, and it held for a while but ultimately gave up after 2 years and I had to remove the water pump again to remove and refit the pipe.

[junglejuice]

You don't need to touch the AC compressor to remove the waterpump at all, you only need to undo the lower power steering bracket bolt a few turns to allow it to move slightly, thats all.

Removing the AC compressor is simply adding more work to what is a fairly straight forward job, a ring spanner will fit on this bolt with the AC compressor still mounted up tight.

I use short extensions on my 3/8" drive socket set which works a treat for the pump swap.

A little tip, grab a piece if 3ply and sit it up against the radiator, this will help your knuckles and prevent damage to the radiator fins....

[Roler]

Here are pics of the 3 water pump gaskets listed on Rockauto for my vehicle and year (brands Omix-Ada, Felpro and Victor Reinz)
You can see the different 'center' shape. The one that came with my pump is the 'teardrop' shaped one, and I'm just wondering if that will 'seal' enough. The outer edge will still be covered, so maybe thats the only thing that matters?

[ApacheResistance]

You should be fine with any of those gaskets. I normally use fel- pro gaskets.

As long as the gasket covers the metal on the thermostat housing that makes direct contact with the block you'll be fine

Teflon Tape is a lubricant - not a sealant. It just makes it so you can tighten it down more. Same concept with pipe dope. Buy an actual sealant. You can wrap the threads in Teflon (wrap it clockwise on the threads if you're facing the pipe) and then put sealant over that for double protection.