P02E8 Diesel intake air flow “a” position sensor circuit low

[vijith555]

Originally Posted by drover

I think and hope that its just a clean that was needed as I doubt changing the whole unit would achieve very much at all ................... you have also learnt about the hose removal so a double win, once you have the knack its simple , like most things... hard to explain how though............... Next have a look at your MAP sensor it will make this flap look pristine.

Yes I agree the flap and sensor was full of oil before the squirt.

Yes I am considering giving the MAP a clean one day as I have seen videos of that thing being so full of oil in some cases which looks scary. Seriously should be included as part of logbook servicing intervals but they aren't! Surprises me because it does not take that much longer to do these quick cleans.

[vijith555]

Originally Posted by Jeeper6

...seeing the oily condition of that sensor it gives more reason to have a catch can fitted.
Note how Toyota are now going to fit a catch can to some of their upcoming diesel models...hmmm

I keep hearing the word catch can but seriously have no idea what this mod is and how it is done. Is it necessary or just something that would be beneficial in the longer run. Sound like a noob now sorry lol

[OLMATE]

Don't be sorry mate, all good. A catch can catches the majority of oil in it's mist form ( commonly known as Blow By and condenses it back to a liquid state which you periodically drain off via opening a stop cock, very easy
Similar to an Ol school grease trap on a septic system

[vijith555]

Originally Posted by OLMATE

Don't be sorry mate, all good. A catch can catches the majority of oil in it's mist form ( commonly known as Blow By and condenses it back to a liquid state which you periodically drain off via opening a stop cock, very easy
Similar to an Ol school grease trap on a septic system

Thanks for explaining this to me mate that's really good to know. So that must be quite effective as it is catching the oil while in air as opposed to when trying to burn off when deposited somewhere. The current system on these cars and probably all other makes is trying to clean up the mess in post compared to this.

[drover]

The sump is a closed system so the hot oily vapours from it get drawn into the engine and burnt, this ha sbeen a thing in petrol and diesels for decades, they once vented to outside usually by a cap or tube from the rocker cover, then they mad eit so it went to the combustion chamber to be burnt, all was good in the world until they started to draw an amount of exhaust into the combustion process as well to burn nasty gases, this sooty dry hot air now mixes with the oily hot air and makes a sludge which coats the inside of manifold and gums things up so bad that intakes can close up by 80% or more........... A catch can attempts to remove a majority of this oil vapour but not all sadly... Mine I will drop about 80-100 ml at each service but the internals are still oily..... I do my MAP as well every 10K km, its very sooty and a bit gooey but not as bad as no catch can, if left they will just gum up entirely.. some care is needed when removing and replacing and cleaning is only by a Sensor Cleaner by just squirting it till its clean, dries in 5 mins then replace, never poke or try to clean with anything other than the spray stuff...

Lots of info about Catch Cans online along with lots of various opinions on their effectivness, I know from using a few that they collect a lot of oil that was destined for my engine so can't be all bad....

[vijith555]

Originally Posted by drover

The sump is a closed system so the hot oily vapours from it get drawn into the engine and burnt, this ha sbeen a thing in petrol and diesels for decades, they once vented to outside usually by a cap or tube from the rocker cover, then they mad eit so it went to the combustion chamber to be burnt, all was good in the world until they started to draw an amount of exhaust into the combustion process as well to burn nasty gases, this sooty dry hot air now mixes with the oily hot air and makes a sludge which coats the inside of manifold and gums things up so bad that intakes can close up by 80% or more........... A catch can attempts to remove a majority of this oil vapour but not all sadly... Mine I will drop about 80-100 ml at each service but the internals are still oily..... I do my MAP as well every 10K km, its very sooty and a bit gooey but not as bad as no catch can, if left they will just gum up entirely.. some care is needed when removing and replacing and cleaning is only by a Sensor Cleaner by just squirting it till its clean, dries in 5 mins then replace, never poke or try to clean with anything other than the spray stuff...

Lots of info about Catch Cans online along with lots of various opinions on their effectivness, I know from using a few that they collect a lot of oil that was destined for my engine so can't be all bad....

Thanks for this explanation mate that’s indeed a sacrifice the engine is subjected to protect the environment I guess!? That’s a lot of oil depositing no wonder things get oiled up this quickly. Mine has no catch can so I can only imagine how bad the intervals look like. The throttle body looked oily too. And the manufacturers don’t include cleaning of MAP or MAF sensors and other bits during regular log book service intervals which is deliberately letting the engine parts to get caked with this stuff. I know you guys are probably laughing when I mentioned log book servicing haha

I am coming from owning petrol cars my whole life and this is my first diesel so yeah it’s a bit of a learning curve for me..funny enough it’s the last diesel from Jeep too! Gotta live with the under torque V6 petrol in future or fork up a lot of cash and get the 4xe to have that boost. Hate to drive any car that has bad acceleration haha..this ecodiesel blew my mind when I test drove it as I didn’t expect it to shoot off the line the way it did. Some days I think maybe I should have gone with the 5.7 or 6.4 (older years) for the fun of it but then the fuel expense would have been lot harder I suppose. But you see a lot of the 6.4 ones around too �� - maybe they don’t have problems like oily throttle body flaps lol

[vijith555]

Alright guys I think I am going to have to take a decision on what I do next with this.

Since the quick cleanup of flap and temp sensor on the throttle body did not make a difference, I am inclined to now picking the next option of getting the throttle body replaced. I could still go to a sparky and get them to do a full test and tell me if the throttle body has electrical shorts (which most likely is the case) but the time and money spent there could go towards a new/used one. I know it is a gamble and has a slight chance it might not fix the issue but atleast one step towards trying. I really believe it is an electrical short on the sensor that is causing this now. So it might be working sometimes, and not other times but you are not sitting there and watching the flap open/close every ignition. In fact not sure if you guys have noticed it, when you shut the car off and listen you can hear the flap motor going up and down like 4 clicks. You got to have the radio turned off and be listening to it. Not sure if this should be only 2, almost like it is doing it one more extra time putting it in a closed position again maybe.

Been monitoring the DPF regen operations and they seem to be working fine. Soot levels, distance between burns and burn times all seem normal and functioning despite the error. The only 'mechanical' feel to the issue is if I don't remember to wait for about 30 seconds before restarting the engine after shutting it down (not common to do but sometimes you do because you parked wrong and need to move the car again example). If I don't wait like mentioned and crank it, it goes into continuous cranking and it won’t start where I need to cancel the crank. And then wait a few seconds, starts all like nothing is wrong. Every cold start and subsequent starts between trips starts like nothing is wrong so some days I forget I have this issue tbh. Except for the CEL that sits on dash and the fact that I cannot remote start lol. Got an iCar Pro BT OBD now and it is always plugged in (has the ability to shut off after car stops to save power) and have JScan on my phone so I could check anytime easily.
My question is I could try the guy who said he would swap the throttle body for a used one including labour for $660 or do I try getting a new throttle body online (not MOPAR) for cheap and try to swap this myself or by a mechanic. I have seen some throttle bodies on AliExpress for dirt cheap, almost unbelievable pricing. And I could be wrong but the 3.6L petrol and 3.0L diesel throttle bodies are same on these. Has anyone got a part number? If you guys can suggest me a site or place where I could find one that would be great. Or is it just worth going to that guy for the second hand one – only plus is he fits it and if it doesn’t work, he could just reverse it. I could even try and ask him if the swap doesn’t fix the issue, can I revert back and not get charged for the throttle body maybe.