Here's the OBD display:
https://ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/ultragauge_wired.htm
With a mounting bracket it's around $175 AUD shipped from the USA.
Figured I'd update with some photos of what I've done on the Jeep in case it helps anybody in the future.
Ryco RCC351K catch can install
Used 25mm inner diameter fuel drum hose from eBay, 2x 25mm polypropylene elbows and hose clamps from bunnings. To mount the can itself, modified the bracket it came with and welded to a piece of metal scrap I made into a bracket.
The rubber hose that from from whatever is on the left to the turbo intake (the one just before the sensor) is really tight at both ends, I had to use a small screwdriver to stick underneath it and pry it out - came off easy after that.
Elephant hose mod
from Point-blank auto per Clarky's links in the sticky in this forum. Hose clamps from bunnings. I cut the t-pipe a bit more than the instructions, otherwise it rubbed on the fuel filter
Redarc tow pro elite brake controller
Went with this mainly because it is tiny and with the other type of brake controllers that are typically mounted just above your knees, you don't have a lot of leg room. And if they are proportional controllers, and you knock it with your knee, you will throw off the calibration and your braking will be wonky at best and very dangerous at worst.
Power wires and 30A auto-reset circuit breaker connected positive to a fuse box terminal and negative to a ground post. Not happy with that circuit breaker mount job, not one bit, but it will do for now.
Then ran some thin poly piping as cable conduit from the battery area in thru a rubber gasket on passenger side (a previous owner had already cut this for something, so I used the existing slice to feed the conduit thru), then under/thru the dash to the driver's side.
the controller's box is very thoroughly zip-tied to a piece of metal to the left of the steering column. double checked nothing would hit it here.
I didn't have any butt connectors and I generally prefer soldering, so I got my iron up under the steering area and very, very carefully spliced into the brake lamp wire and factory-provided green trailer brake signal wire.
At the rear, whoever had installed the 7-pin trailer connector had not connected the brake signal wire, well it was connected at some point but they had cut it. I found the brake signal wire in the bundle of wires running underneath the vehicle - same green color as under the dash, and in the same bundle that connects to the brake lamps. cut it and connected the blue 7-pin brake signal wire to it and everything works.
Glow plugs
Did this today. Taking the electrical connectors off was the second-hardest part, the #6 glow plug (back passenger side) is really cramped and it was a pain in the batoot to get it off. was afraid I would break the connector.
after taking off all the electrical connectors I tested all the plugs with my multimeter set to continuity/resistance. positive of multimeter on the end of the plug, negative on ground. this test confirmed that the #1, #2 and #4 glow plugs had very high resistance and needed replacing.
couldn't find compressed air so I just used a small tube and my lungs to blow all loose dust around the plugs away.
WD-40'd all the plugs, waited a while, got a few out but some still sticking and I didn't want to push it with the wrench, WD-40 again, wait a few, got em out except #5, which was the hardest part.
used Penrite Copper Eze high temperature anti-seize ccompound on the threads when installing the new glow plugs
#5 was really in there good. after 3x WD-40 applications and like 45 minutes total time soaking, i could move it with an acceptable amount of force, but only a tiny bit at a time. I slowly, carefully loosened it and got it to what I thought was completely un-threaded but it wouldn't lift out. after more lubrication and screwing it in and out a few times I got it a bit looser, could pull it out a little bit but got stuck. well kept at it and finally got it out and holy smokes! it's dirty as and has carbon caked up all on it.
at this point I wanted to clean the tube where the glow plug was inserted but figured there was no way to do that really without getting nasty soot or whatever downn in the hole which I assume is a bad idea. so, I just installed the new plug. it did not go in smoothly like the rest - im sure there is a layer of carbon in the hole it goes into. maybe I will revisit it in the future.
interestingly, plugs 3, 5 and 6 all tested fine while in the engine block. but only #3 was 100% good after taking them out. #5 obviously is crap. #6 was good in some areas and bad in others. kept #3 as a backup and #6 as a backup backup.
#5 is a different brand than then rest, which along with the 6 new ones i put in, were all bosch. maybe during the last glow plug swap they couldn't get #5 out and left it? dunno.
filled up the windscreen washer reservoir with bars bugs and clean water also
turned her on, started up quickly! usually takes around 3 seconds first start of the day - today, after the glow plugs, around 1 second. cleared codes, rescan, computer is happy with everything, and so am I.
2006 Jeep WH Grand Cherokee
Sargent Gutsy
SOLD 06 Limited G/C QuadraDrive II Lovells 2"Lift +30 rims 265/70/17 Imported Saguaro Bar Stedi
