More trans questions please help

[anthonygubbin]

Ok so I might have been doing myself a disservice but I have been trolling the pages of Google and am thinking I might have another problem..... I read a post about needing an alignment tool for the trans pump. Is this true for the AW4? When I replaced the pump it seemed like it would only go in one way that is for all the bolt holes to line up. It was the same for the cover even so I looked to see where things came apart before I removed them.
Another question its common for the pumps to crack if the TC is not keyed in correctly. Would have the reason mine did not crack be because its cast iron and not ally?

Regards A

[anthonygubbin]

Is there anyone out there who knows about the AW4 that wouldn't mind me calling to chat about mine?

Regards A

[anthonygubbin]

Just finished chatting to a mate Ozjeepster and he has put mind at ease somewhat. Its beginning to sound like the worst of my probs will be if the seal leaks. I may have to see if I can order a seal just in case. Gonna need a part number for the seal. If anyone knows where I can get the part number for the input shaft from I would really appreciate it. Unfortunately I won't be able to order the seal without the part number or my vin as I don't have access to my Jeep.

Regards A

[fil]

I use two tools to align the front and rear halves of the pump, one around the circumference, and the other is a dummy drive that allows me turn the pump gears during the bolt tightening sequence. You are correct in that the index of the bolt holes will only line up in one place though. If the pump havles are not aligned the drive gear can "eat" the crescent in the pump housing. Most times what I have seen from others in the same situation as you is when the trans is bolted up with the convertor bolted to the flex plate first everything will line up apart from the pump drive, the convertor spout pushes on the drive "teeth" of the pump gear and if you "pull the trans up to the engine with the bolts" the pump drive "teeth" will crack or even break off all together.

[anthonygubbin]

Originally Posted by fil

I use two tools to align the front and rear halves of the pump, one around the circumference, and the other is a dummy drive that allows me turn the pump gears during the bolt tightening sequence. You are correct in that the index of the bolt holes will only line up in one place though. If the pump havles are not aligned the drive gear can "eat" the crescent in the pump housing. Most times what I have seen from others in the same situation as you is when the trans is bolted up with the convertor bolted to the flex plate first everything will line up apart from the pump drive, the convertor spout pushes on the drive "teeth" of the pump gear and if you "pull the trans up to the engine with the bolts" the pump drive "teeth" will crack or even break off all together.

Can you explain this a little more Fil? The trans needs to come back out doesn't it? In the FSM it doesn't mention using an aligning tool. It just says to make sure the gears are running smooth.

Regards A

[junglejuice]

Originally Posted by anthonygubbin

Just finished chatting to a mate Ozjeepster and he has put mind at ease somewhat. Its beginning to sound like the worst of my probs will be if the seal leaks. I may have to see if I can order a seal just in case. Gonna need a part number for the seal. If anyone knows where I can get the part number for the input shaft from I would really appreciate it. Unfortunately I won't be able to order the seal without the part number or my vin as I don't have access to my Jeep.

Regards A

Have you got a copy of the parts manual AG?
If not pm me your email and I can send you a copy, I can see a seal for what looks like the front of the oil pump, not sure if this is the seal you're after....

[anthonygubbin]

I can not believe it but its coming back out. I have not correctly aligned the pump therefore I could wreck it completely if I don't take it back to the mech to get it right.

Regards A