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  #15  
Old 06-03-2011
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hunty  hunty is offline
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Smile Fixed bonnet scoop FAIL lol - turned it around.

I have just pulled it off and turned it around, apparently the windscreen creates a high pressure system just above the cabin air intake that makes the reverse scoop idea DUMB! - However the heat will still rise up and out when wheelin in 4x4 Low and I can get a heap more air under the hood at speed - well thats my theory and I'm sticking with it
cheers Hunty
  #16  
Old 06-03-2011
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hunty  hunty is offline
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Smile Added more Spotties, light Bar & 10,000lb smittybuilt winch

Finally got a winch
picked it up whilst in the USA for $290 and it came with genuine dyneema rope - smuggled it home in my suitcase lol

  #17  
Old 06-03-2011
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Smile Time for some comfort - added the adjustable Ranchos

Another Mod that really made a huge difference - I picked the rancho's up cheap from the AJOR classifieds and could not be happier! - if i want to run like a pensioner and float on a cloud I select setting 1 .
If I want to go hard on the tar or I load it up with fat @sses, rooftop tent and trailer I turn em up to 4 or 5 for a really nice tight ride.

I added the shock relocation brackets to ensure the shocks didnt hit the chasis!

So this is what I learnt whilst installing the Ranchos

1. They don't fit out of the box & clash with the rear sway bar.
2. They are awesome - have improved my ride outta sight!
3. its a relatively easy adjustment / fix to make them fit.

The front Ranchos installed easily and fitted very well but the rear Ranchos ext reservoir outlet / connection was positioned exactly on top of the sway bar and if installed as is & without modification would definitely get broken off first time out wheelin.

I am sure there are many solutions however the one I chose not only makes space for the ranchos but also gives a little help to the rear sway bar.

I added a small block to lower the the sway bar mount on both sides and now there is ample clearance

I hope this info is useful to those of you with JK's and Adjustable Rancho's with Ext reservoirs

cheers Hunty




  #18  
Old 06-03-2011
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hunty  hunty is offline
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Smile Onboard air tank / front bull bar

Hi Guyz
I finally got around to completing a project that has been in my head for years; turn my front bar into an air tank so I can run a rattle gun whilst out wheelin on a tough trail!

I installed my ARB compressor in behind my spare wheel - mainly because under the bonnet of my JK the temperature reaches that of Satans BBQ!

I then welded up the ends of my front bar to make it Air tight - drilled and tapped a brass drain plug and installed a quick release air outlet with non return valve.

I wanted to know the pressure so I added a PSI gauge to the right of my steering wheel.

Finally today I charged it up to 100psi (recommended by the manufacturer of my rattle gun) and attempted to get 1 of the wheel studs off that had been rattled on by an intellectually challenged tyre monkey! LoL - so tight that I bent my wheel brace trying to loosen it!

I hope you enjoy the write up as much as I will enjoy having my rattle gun on the trails
cheers
Hunty

ps - the last 2 pix are photobucket videos - just click in the middle of them to watch.









  #19  
Old 06-03-2011
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Smile Installed a 500amp Ameter

I have recently added 5 more 100w lights to my JK and was wondering how my alternator was coping, I also wanted to know just how much strain my winch was placing on my Alternator, battery and electrical system at different levels of Pull!

I now have 900w of light (Hi Beam) and according to my new Ammeter I am using 61amps out of a total of 160 (yes I got lucky and my jeep has a 160amp alternator)

To save you all the pain I went through - heres a couple of tips
1. buy a ammeter and shunt that reads up to 500Amps
2. if you buy off Ebay as I did and they don't supply any instructions or wiring diags then pls only connect the shunt between the battery neg and the jeep - eg disconnect the black wire from the battery and insert the shunt!
3.be very careful to connect the sensor wires to the shunt with the correct polarity - if you don't you will need to buy a replacement Ammeter with a few seconds!

Warning - Science content - What is a shunt - well it is a device with a tiny amount of resistance (75ma) so if you connect a load - (in my case 900w of light) to a battery and you connect through a shunt the voltage that you can read at the battery will be (if the battery is full) 13.8v and if you measure the voltage after it has gone through the shunt it will be approx .006v less - this tiny discrepancy is translated by the ammeter and displayed (in my case) as 61amps. - sorry for the science content Jeepers - LoL - but i'm sure at least 1 person wants to now!

I now it takes approx 250amps to pull a 3.5ton Patrol up a steep hill skidding and bellied out scrapping all the way up!
cheers Hunty



  #20  
Old 06-03-2011
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Smile Installed after market tyre Pressure & Temperature Monitor

Hi Guyz
I am loving my new tyre dogs - Pressure & Temperature monitoring (realtime)

I added the monitors to hopefully save destroying an expensive tyre or two whilst wheelin - I have programmed the monitors for on road and off road;

On road the low pressure alarm is set to activate when a tyre falls below 30psi and I usually run between 32 & 35psi

Off road I set the alarm to a couple of psi below my aired down pressure ; if I am on sand and am running 12psi I set the alarm to 10psi

Hopefully this will allow me time to pull over and fix a leak before I have chance to shred them driving on a flat tyre - as all of you know its hard sometimes to know when you have a flat especially if you are in MUD!

I bought the tyre dogs that screw onto the valve stem - dumb@ss I hear some of you saying already (Yom- LoL).

Why;
1. I wanted to be able to remove them and use them on hire vehicles.

2. They are coded to the wheel position so if (and I always do at half way) I changed the front tyres to the back - didnt want to have to break the tyre bead. just to relocate the monitors.

3. I often tow a trailer and will take the front 2 off and put on the trailer when towing - as you all know when the trailer starts to feel a little soft / bungee to tow its too late - tyre already shreaded.

Tip
When I screwed them onto the valve they protruded past the sidewall of the tyre - this was clearly going to be a bad idea for serious wheelin so I took another handful of smart@ss pills and modified my rims!

I found a wheel mod friendly tyre store and had them remove my tyres and drill 4 additional valve stem sized holes and installed 4 extra valve stems - 1 in each rim! as close to the centre of the rim and as far as possible away wheelin danger.

Bonus
Not having to remove them & replace them everytime I wanted to Air Down & Air Up
I can now air up with the Mrs comfortable in the car with aircon on - all she has to do is toot the horn when the tyres are back to road pressure - I don't have to continuously check the pressure - can do other things like reconnect my sway bars, wipe mud from lights and number plates etc
Enjoy Cheers Hunty







  #21  
Old 06-03-2011
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hunty  hunty is offline
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Smile Gears, Lockers & Evap can bash plate

Finally got rid of the 3.21's - which made my heap quite sluggish when I ran 35's
so I changed to 4.56's and ARB air leakers even though I currently run 33's MTZ's I like the 4.56's it gives me quite a good low 1st gear when rock hopping + their is still the smallest chance that one day I can get engineered on 35's




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