What did you do to your Grand today (ZJ/WJ)?

[HamishW96]

Originally Posted by JeanLuke

Should be back on the road for next weekend. Meantime I get to drive my Renault Gordini. Not so bad.

Pics of gordini pls, Im in the same situation right now, driving my Clio 172 atm due to my jeep being broken hahaha. Not a bad thing

[Adrian D]

Originally Posted by JeanLuke

Got the V8 hose coming based on info in another thread that it fits with a little rubbing on the intercooler hose. Protective rubber and zip ties are on standby.

The local hydraulics shop knocked out a replacement in 1 hour at most. Mine was leaking at the crimps, too, because some numb-nuts (before I got the car) tightened the crimped section in a vice.

[Adrian D]

On Saturday I took the bull by the horns to replace the leaky heater hoses.
Previous owner told me when I got the car that he ran with water because he had some trouble with the hoses. Silly me, I imagined he did it right...

As it turns out, he replaced the bottom hose with a used one off another car, too big in diameter and it was already damaged under the clamp:


Much to my surprise, the pipe was rusted, which is the main reason why the damn thing leaked:


So I got a good used set (not knicked, not swollen) and redid the insulation with exhaust wrap and aluminium foil. I've add the old insulation over the clamps, to make sure this time the heat won't kill the hose:





Or course space is tight and because it's LHD, the hoses snake behind the exhaust, so I had to undo an engine mount and lower the engine a bit.

Now to find out why it pulls to the right when I dis-engage cruise control at 120km/h...

[JeanLuke]

Fitted the V8 power steering hose. The bend at the pump on the V8 hose is a little less than 90 degrees. To make it fit, you need to make it a little more than 90 degrees. I did that by gripping it in a vice, putting a length of 3/4" water pipe over the end and giving it a bend. It fits "okay" but does clash lightly with the intercooler hose.

[Meccano]

Replaced the Rear Lower Control Arms on my WG Jeep GC, the replacements are ACDelco units from RockAuto.

This is easy and straight forward job to do, unlike the rear upper control arm. It will take between 2 and 3 hours to complete
depending on how fast you work and how hot it is. You only need a 21mm wrench/ring spanner, a 21mm socket and ratchet and a 4lb hammer.

With the body safely sitting on chassis stands and the diff supported on a jack, the control arms can be removed and replaced one at a time.
The diff will move when the control arm is removed but only by about 10mm or so.
The "tip" is to bolt up the body end of the control arm first then you can pull the diff back by hand and insert the diff bolt through the control arm. Only do them up medium tight, get the Jeep back on the ground and drive it up and down the drive way to settle the suspension. The crawl under the Jeep and do the bolts up tight.



The new verses the old.


Worn out bushes.





The Jeep now drives a lot better.

[JeanLuke]

New steering damper a few days ago. It certainly is less "wobbly" in how it drives now. I used the cheap Monroe from RockAuto.

The old damper offered almost no resistance by hand. It was stuffed, good and proper.

[Meccano]

Did a Leak Off test on the 2.7 crd

With a test just over 3 minutes, there was not a great deal of difference in the fluid level between the cylinders. With the length of the test and the small variation between the injectors i could assume that the injectors are in good condition.

The cylinders being tested are numbered left to right 1, 2, 3, 5 and 4.



Finally a video of the test.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYaL_3HGIf8