multiple problems, need advice

[emmo1]

hey mate have a look on my old post (starting problems) might get something out of it and for your long cranking sounds like air in lines and for smoke and hunting could nearly put my money on the injectors !!!

[drover]

Sounds like you have got it covered, battery could have caused the codes can take up to 40 starts before they clear.
www.wholesalemopar.com has parts at a good price as well as RockAuto.com, this post has part numbers as well as a link to a parts catalogue http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/....php?p=1099283 and other helpful info.
With this engine always double check the part as many Spare Parts people will confuse it with the yank oil burner.
A workshop manual can usually be found on Ebay, make sure it includes the 2.7.

O rings from M Benz about $10.

[fester]

Hey rich, this might help:

P0700
Trans Control 1-2/4-5 Solenoid Circuit
Trans Control 2-3 Solenoid Circuit
Trans Control 3-4 Solenoid Circuit
Trans Control Internal Controller
Trans Control Mod Press Solenoid Circuit
Trans Control Shift Pressure Solenoid Circuit
Trans Control Control Solenoid Supply Voltage
Trans Control TCC Solenoid Circuit

P0340
CMP/CKP Position Sensor Circuit CKP Dynamic Plausibility
CMP/CKP Position Sensor Circuit CMP/CKP Sync Failure
CMP/CKP Position Sensor Circuit Signal Frequency too High
CMP/CKP Position Sensor Circuit Static Plausibility

P0460
Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Signal Voltage too High
Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Signal Voltage too Low

P0403
EGR Solenoid Circuit Negative Deviation
EGR Solenoid Circuit Open Circuit
EGR Solenoid Circuit Short Circuit

To examine these codes a bit more you really need the workshop manual that will give some info on tracing the fault. There is a link to it in Drovers CRD part number thread. Whilst a low battery can be the cause of numerous faults I'm not sure which of these if caused by that will remain in the system. Some do, some don't and they don't necessarily go away straight away, some require certain number of good cycles before they do. The manual covers this.

The trans code might be historic (although can still be voltage related) given you don't seem to have any driveability issues. That code is generic as the proper gearbox codes are held in the TCM and the TCM then throws that generic code into the ECU. Only the dealers tool can read the TCM (if they are smart enough to understand how their diesel works, most don't).

The CMP/CKP could be either the crank sensor or the cam sensor. That code may or may not have an effect on engine running. Mine had that code when I bought it and it ran fine. I had it cleared and it still ran fine and still does so and the code has come back. It could possibly relate to my gearbox issue but has not to date had any effect on my fuel system.

The fuel level sensor code I've not seen anything much on but it may simply be triggered by battery voltage.

The EGR code is the easiest to deal with. Don't waste your time diagnosing as the EGR is a bad thing in your engine. I did a thread on bypassing the EGR solenoid if you search. It's easy to do and costs under $2.00. Being emissions related I'm surprised the EGR error hasn't thrown the MIL light.

The genuine orings for the plastic fuel lines, filter etc are cheap from a MB dealer and if you ask for all of them they will know what you need. 6 or 8 from memory. You can get them from a GOOD hydraulic shop if you have a sample but make sure they are exactly the right size and that they are viton and fuel safe and not generic ones. The fuel pump kits you can get from any good Bosch diesel agent, again they should know it easily.

The other thing you will find is almost no mechanic outside a dealer will have a code reader capable of reading and more importantly clearing your codes. So if you go to an independant mechanic make sure you don't get charged for a heap of vague diagnosis.

Lastly it's probably not as scary as it sounds, there's a fair bit of experience here to cover most situations and another source of help can be the MB forums as this engine/gearbox combo is in thousands of Mercs.

[27rich]

thanks for all the info guys, now just have to get the time to fix it all.

[Brockie]

Originally Posted by 27rich

ok, so thanks for all the replies,
I know about letting the glow plugs warm before cranking so am doing that every time, but has anyone noticed that after the car is warm the glow plug symbol does not come on every time.


thanks

I live in Queensland and it happens to me regularly if my Grand has already been started that day. I assume that the system detects a warm engine with no need to wait for the glow plugs to start.

[drover]

Fester on the money as usual.

As for glow plugs and starting, with the CRD just turn the key on, put your seat belt on then hit GO, the lights should be out by then and it should start in 2 turns, mine got nearly 200,000k on it, it will even start on key in and crank, but then in QLD unless it's the dead of winter your glow plugs aren't activating anyway. Will have a check of manual but they will only activate below a certain temp.
It would probably be worth the hassle of getting a dealer or someone with a DRB III scanner to clear all codes then see what is actually active and go from there, if it is running okay then I would suspect you have a heap of dead codes, no use throwing $$$$ at shadows.

[fester]

Originally Posted by Brockie

I live in Queensland and it happens to me regularly if my Grand has already been started that day. I assume that the system detects a warm engine with no need to wait for the glow plugs to start.

That's exactly right with most diesels. Once the engine has been running they are nearly always hot enough to self ignite and the glow plugs do not activate and there is no need to wait. As Drover says, in warmer climates they are hardly needed.

In fact not all diesels have glow plugs these days. The 1HD-FTE in the Toyota does not have glow plugs and mine never had problems starting even in the middle of winter. They do run a heater matrix in the inlet tract to pre-warm the air if needed but even with that disconnected it started fine.

The glow plugs could cause a little cold start hesitation but fueling is still more likely.