2.8L CRD reliability/issues?

[Paul-JK]

Originally Posted by Lord_Muck

Hmmmmm now you see this could be a critically useful piece of information as the ratio's are probably half the cause of the economy figures anyway and i intend on fitting bigger tyres.

Can someone confirm this?

I don't buy cars for fuel economy alone, my other car is a 4.4L V8 BMW X5 auto and i drive 42km each way to work, it's returning a consistent 13.5L/100km at the moment, which i can live with given the power etc. Any better than that with a lift and tyres etc is a bonus.

Hopefully someone else can confirm.

My 4dr CRD auto uses under 12l/100km if I only do city driving. Get a few better runs or keep out of the bad traffic but still around the city and that'll be down to 10.5. Went up to Coff's camping a few months ago and on the run up and back I was getting 9.5, even packed to the roof with camping gear and not driving for economy. That's with a 2.5" lift and 33's. Basically the GDE tune countered the effect the lift and slightly larger tyres had on the fuel consumption so it's now back to getting what it was stock........only with more power, more torque and running a whole load cleaner

[Lord_Muck]

haha i have no problem running no mufflers at all, but the wife doesn't like it on long trips. I will look into that down the track.

I'll tinker with power and tuning AFTER i buy a the thing but cheers for the advice

So long as the 2007 is the same engine, same reliability etc with the better diff ratio's then it may be back on the cards, coz the price jump is about 10k between 2007 and 2008's here for some unkown reason, not a lot for sale to compare to tho.

If it has a factory towbar is that necessarily a "Tow Pack" or how else do i check that? Or would the ratio be written on a build plate or stamped somewhere i could check like it is on japanese cars? I've seen a factory compliance plate in the boot well but not much info on that only build date, VIN etc.

[Paul-JK]

Not sure if there is any way to check if the tow bar is factory or not, unless by chance it has a MOPAR sticker on it. Check it has a wiring harness (so it's not just the tow bar that's been fitted for recovery purposes). I'd say it had the harness then it's odd's on it'll be legit, but even if it's not you can pick up factory tow bar kits for under $500 and they're a doddle to fit.

Not sure if the diff ratios would be noted down anywhere, other than on the original build spec which I believe you can request from Jeep with your VIN number. A quicker way would be to jack up a wheel, make a mark on the drive shaft and get someone to slowly spin the wheel while you watch the drive shaft. If the drive shaft makes just over 4 rotations for 1 wheel rotation then it's 4.1's. If the drive shaft makes just under 4 rotations then it's 3.73's and if it makes just over 3 rotations then it's 3.21's. Might be the best way to check as at least you then know what's fitted now, not what was fitted from the factory 6 or 7 years ago.

[Skinkis]

Originally Posted by DavidJ

That's an easy fix; a couple of wraps of insulation tape around the door latch and the irritating B pillar rattle will be gone. I mean the part attached to the pillar, not on the door itself.

What is the part you insulate to get rid of the rattle?
The metal bracket that holds the snorkel on the A-pillar?

[MRGC]

Holds the door.

[Paul-JK]

You might also want to check the bolt in the top corner of the windscreen that secures the windscreen to the A pillar. They have been known to work loose and rattle.

[Lord_Muck]

Well i bought something else in the meantime but soon got bored with that, so i'm off to have a look at an Auto '08 CRD this afternoon, in black, 75,000km.

Will see how it goes and if it's a pre-June '08 or a post-June '08 model