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  #29  
Old 04-02-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hanna View Post
Just make sure the cable diameter is the same as OEM
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  #30  
Old 08-02-2018
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Thats me! For reference i'm running a SSB SS88TI AGM Stop-Start battery as my main starter battery (1180CCA / 92AH) and that second battery is a 38AH AGM (all that would fit unfortunately) that i use to run my fridge / other accessories as needed.

I've got an isolator wired up too so I can tie the batteries together just incase I happen to flatten / kill the starter battery although so far i've only ever flattened it once and that was when the car was in the shed whilst i was rebuilding the engine.

The battery tray is a pretty simple build consisting of right angle aluminium to make the base and it mounts off a couple bolts on the strut brace and one large bolt off the strut tower.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Clarky View Post
I have an Optima D27F since April 2016, so far so good.
Cold Cranking Amps: 830
Capacity: 66 Ah

Here is some pics of a second battery setup on a Hemi.
Can't figure out who did it (was a member here) but the original images hosted by Photo Bucket so of course we can't see then now.
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  #31  
Old 24-02-2018
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Default Success!

So, I ended up flattening out the battery terminals and stretching them as far as I could and I made it work! The negative wasn't an issue, however the positive is a bit more of a stretch (pardon the pun).






I figured this would keep me out of trouble until I do some rewiring for my Anderson plug and batter isolator.

So far, so good. I am pretty sure my alternator is fine, but will monitor over the next few weeks.
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Last edited by Hanna; 24-02-2018 at 11:50 AM.
  #32  
Old 24-02-2018
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The existing lead acid battery was leaking badly and looking pretty worse for wear:



The good news is that I removed the battery tray to check the ECM and there were no signs of acid attack:



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  #33  
Old 25-03-2019
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Default Still a problem.....

Hey all - long time since I have had time to get on here and contribute! Been too busy with work and a 1 year old on my hands. Now stuck in the house for the past 3 days waiting for Tropical Cyclone Veronica to pass over the North West, so now is the opportunity!

I thought that this problem was dead and buried since I put my Optima battery in, but around 2 months ago it went dead on a hot day when I was idling for a long time again (A/C fan went up really high all of a sudden and then started blowing hot air). This time I kept the car running and then drove it at 110km/hr for about 55km back home and it had enough charge in it to start again a few hours later.

After a decent charge on my 8 Stage charger, it was all fine it happened again 2 weeks later when I left the car idling for about 20min whilst my baby daughter slept in her car seat. When I went to start it again it was dead.

Charged it again and all was well until 2 weeks ago when I dropped my car off at the panel beaters to get some damage repaired. They called me up the day before it was ready and told me to get a new battery as it was flat. Thinking that it must have been a crook battery, I went and bought another one - this time a Lead Acid Century Battery (780CCA) as many people told me that no battery lasts for long in the heat up here - Lead Acid or AGM.

Anyway, the A/C had to be re-gassed as the panel beater had to disconnect the rear A/C to get to the rear 1/4 panel and so they got their Auto-Electrician in to do it. After 2 attempts to re-gas it, they still weren't happy with the temperature of the A/C so the Auto-Elec did some checks and reckons my alternator is stuffed! So now I have spent $300 on a battery I didn't need and still need to spend money on another alternator!

The best options I can find at the moment are a brand new aftermarket one on eBay for $500, or a secondhand one for $200 with 115,000km on it. I am tempted to get the secondhand one and rebuild the original one and put it aside for a rainy day.

I was having a look at the 220Amp ones from the Mercedes Sprinter Vans like Clarky mentioned earlier in this thread, but I am a little worried that I will end up with an expensive non-compatible paperweight!

Thoughts?
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  #34  
Old 25-03-2019
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I'd go the second hand option
It's cheaper and if you're current alternator
just needs commutator clean & brushes you're all good
then you'll save even more $$$
Dunno anything about the voltage reg's & diodes on these
That's when it gets expensive

Cheers
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  #35  
Old 25-03-2019
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A good sparky can rebuild it. I had my denso rebuilt twice. On one occasion, one of the bearings was kaput. As it turned out, I had it on my car for a year after its last fix, and it is now my spare and in good working order. It has lasted 24 years. My mechanic said the ones manufactured today have poor endurance.
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