KK: In Dad's memory - Page 4 - AUSJEEPOFFROAD.COM Jeep News Australia and New Zealand

adrenalineoffroad
Find out how to advertise on Ausjeep?

Go Back   AUSJEEPOFFROAD.COM Jeep News Australia and New Zealand > JEEP GARAGE > Jeep build up


Portal Register Forums Trading Your Jeep New Garage Mark All Read

Post New Thread  Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #28  
Old 29-09-2018
Gojeep's Avatar
Gojeep  Gojeep is offline
LokRinger
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Victoria
Posts: 6,545
Likes: 362
Liked 852 Times in 251 Posts
Default

Doesn't seem to be much interest here in moding the KK so not sure to bother with little things I doing to it?


Just like the XJ, the rear doors don't swing open very far. Can see why it was hard on our big American Akita Kuma to get in and out past the door when going up the ramp.


Not a lot of gap there so was doubtful how much further I could make the door swing open.


Stock door swings open to 847mm.


These doors rely on two fingers on each hinge that hit a pressed up bump or stop to limit how far it opens.


The bottom hinge is harder to work on and are joined as well.


Top ones are easy to see and work on so just have to start trimming away a bit at a time evenly on all four 'fingers'. These can even be cut with an angle grinder with a cutoff disc.


I found a 10mm air powered belt sander worked the best.


Getting into the upper part of the bottom stop was the hardest. Using a grinding stone on a Dremel was the only thing I could get in there.


One thing I had to watch out for was that the spring loaded arm, that helps keep the door open, didn't run off the end!


Kept making sure that the stops were hitting flat on and that they all hit at the same time. The spring loaded arm is now about as far as you can go and really didn't want to thin the upper fingers anymore either.


Still got enough room when fully open.


Now it opens to 912mm, or 65mm/2.75" further than before.


Doesn't sound like a lot but it is very noticeable.
__________________
Cheers, Marcus.

My web site:
http://willyshotrod.com Over 5'000 Club
Likes: (3)

Last edited by Gojeep; 09-10-2018 at 02:33 PM.
  #29  
Old 30-09-2018
Jimmyb's Avatar
Jimmyb  Jimmyb is offline
Head Honcho
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Australia
Posts: 12,431
What Jeep do I drive?: XJ
Likes: 842
Liked 900 Times in 518 Posts
Check out my Ride(s)
Default

Great to see you keeping the spirit alive!
__________________
No.1 Aussie Jeep Forum AusJeepOffroad Merchandise 10'000 Club midlifemate.com
Wiseguy Pizzeria Thailand
Likes: (1)
  #30  
Old 30-09-2018
Gojeep's Avatar
Gojeep  Gojeep is offline
LokRinger
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Victoria
Posts: 6,545
Likes: 362
Liked 852 Times in 251 Posts
Default

Thanks for the section move and retitling the build mate. Very thoughtful of you.
__________________
Cheers, Marcus.

My web site:
http://willyshotrod.com Over 5'000 Club

Last edited by Gojeep; 30-09-2018 at 06:43 PM.
  #31  
Old 10-10-2018
Gojeep's Avatar
Gojeep  Gojeep is offline
LokRinger
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Victoria
Posts: 6,545
Likes: 362
Liked 852 Times in 251 Posts
Default


Well look where the GOJEEP plates are now!


I couldn't leave it stock with my custom plates on there now could I! Might still need a little lift too.


Got the biggest tyre I could fit without having to start trimming and regearing. Front is a bit tight but doesn't rub anywhere.


Rear has plenty of room.


The wheels are PDW Exide 17x8" with +35mm offset. That brings the wheel only 5 mm further out than stock and the 245/70R17 Toyo Open Country ATII another 5 mm. Overall width 20 mm wider but track change is only 10mm. Well within legal limits and good for the bearings and steering etc.


Tooks a few weeks of cleaning and detailing to get it looking this good as don't think it was washed or vacuumed once in the last 5 years that I remember!


It has been cut, polished and waxed 3 times in as many weeks! The paint felt like sand paper before I started.
__________________
Cheers, Marcus.

My web site:
http://willyshotrod.com Over 5'000 Club
Sponsored Posts
  #32  
Old 10-10-2018
KKnut's Avatar
KKnut  KKnut is offline
AJOR Silver
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Blue Mountains
Posts: 1,422
What Jeep do I drive?: KK
Likes: 142
Liked 101 Times in 71 Posts
Default

Looks great. Id be surprised if you dont report some damage to the rear of the front well liners in the future. The first flex test while turning the wheels should about do it.
__________________
2010 KK Sport, LPG, Mygig, Uconnect, JBA UCAs, 3" CRDstu lift & Uneek bull bar.
  #33  
Old 10-10-2018
Gojeep's Avatar
Gojeep  Gojeep is offline
LokRinger
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Victoria
Posts: 6,545
Likes: 362
Liked 852 Times in 251 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by KKnut View Post
Looks great. Id be surprised if you dont report some damage to the rear of the front well liners in the future. The first flex test while turning the wheels should about do it.
I'll keep an eye out on it and will fold the pinch seam if necessary.
__________________
Cheers, Marcus.

My web site:
http://willyshotrod.com Over 5'000 Club
Sponsored Posts
  #34  
Old 26-10-2018
Gojeep's Avatar
Gojeep  Gojeep is offline
LokRinger
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Victoria
Posts: 6,545
Likes: 362
Liked 852 Times in 251 Posts
Default


Typical of drive by wire systems there was terrible lag in the first part of the throttle travel. So I bought this Wind booster C8 throttle controller by Cammus. #EYC124A. Its only the size of a matchbox.


To install it you only need to unplug the harness from the top of the throttle pedal assembly. Press the tab on the plug to release it.


Then take the original plug and fit it to the throttle controller harness. The other end just goes where you took the original plug out of the throttle assembly.


I mounted it between the steering column and the centre part of the dash, (RHD). The wire I just pushed in between the two panels.


Can see the wire come out on the far left and then run in behind the alloy column mount.


Then zip tied along the existing harness keeping away from the rotating steering shaft.


The left button is the mode one where it has 4 options. Off, ECO, C1 and C2. ECO is slower than stock for low range in rocky terrain for instance. C1 and C2 are both faster. Each of these modes have 10 settings, adjust up and down via the two right buttons, to give 30 variations of throttle response. I found C1 level 5 the best. It has really made it feel alive and you would have thought it has had a power boost! That dead pedal feeling is all gone.
__________________
Cheers, Marcus.

My web site:
http://willyshotrod.com Over 5'000 Club
Likes: (1)
  #35  
Old 27-10-2018
Gojeep's Avatar
Gojeep  Gojeep is offline
LokRinger
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Victoria
Posts: 6,545
Likes: 362
Liked 852 Times in 251 Posts
Default


Sometimes it is the little things that can make a big difference. The factory leather heated drivers seat had lumber control as well. But for my back it was painful to sit for more than 1/2hr, even with it on the minimum setting, as pushed my lower back into too much of a curve. I found I was able to unzip the cover at the back and remove the lumber support frame that the cable pulls against when adjusting. I have since done a couple of non stop 2hr journeys without any back pain.


To break up the white expanse of the bonnet I had a blackout panel fitted.


Was fitted to the Arctic version of this vehicle in the USA. Also seen on the Liberator II on one of the Mopar Underground vehicles in the 2009 Easter Jeep Safari.


I choose satin black and the local car wrap place did it for me. Looks more masculine now I think.
__________________
Cheers, Marcus.

My web site:
http://willyshotrod.com Over 5'000 Club
Likes: (2)
  #36  
Old 01-11-2018
Gojeep's Avatar
Gojeep  Gojeep is offline
LokRinger
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Victoria
Posts: 6,545
Likes: 362
Liked 852 Times in 251 Posts
Default


Because I wanted 1/2" less than the 2-2.5" suspension you could buy for my model to keep it 100% legal in my state, I specified coils all around for the earlier KJ which was around 200kg/440lb lighter. The extra weight of the KK should drop the height by around 1/2". One main difference though is that the rear springs are different. Can see how much bigger the top of the KJ yellow coil is.


I hunted around the wrecking yard and found these top strut, or coil, mounts in the dirt. Found three of them spread around the 4wd section but none belonged to the vehicles where they were. This fitted the coil perfectly.


It was easier the turn the coil upside down and fit the larger end of the coil to the axle perch. The centre hole was too small to fit over the bump strike pad though.


Good excuse to use the new lathe and hog out the centre. Can also cut it out with a jigsaw if needed.


Dropped over perfectly. Fully reversible too as will just sit there under spring pressure the same as the isolator was.


The original bottom end of the coil fitted the upper mount perfectly. The flange just needed a slight bend depending on how the coil was positioned at the top.


Coils sits on just as planned



Coils are made by King Springs who make it for OME and many others as well. Rear springs are KJRR-28. 210 lb-in rate similar to OME (2)948, but with a 3/4" lower free height.


I got a full set of Bilstein shock absorbers from Summit Racing in the USA sent over. The rears are BSN-24-139175 4600 series. The lengths as the stock so no need to reduce uptravel to fit them. I had no clearance problems with the 245/70R17 tyres on 17x8" wheels with +35 offset. The near stock offset helps a lot in the front especially to stop any rubbing.


Even colour co-ordinates! I added extra isolators that were originally on the bottom perch to the top of the left side as the fuel tank weight pulls this side down. Came out exactly even.


Always hated the danger with screw type spring compressors so thought I might as well use my shop press instead. So very easy and fast to do this way, and much safer. Shifter to hold the shaft while using a ratchet ring spanner to take off the nut.


Old versus new. Bilstein BSN-24-139168 4600 series mono tubes with KJRF-27 King Springs. 400lb-in rate similar to (2)927 OME with 3/4" lower free height.


Reassembly was done the same way.


Already to go back in.


No clearance problems at all and no need to change upper A arm like higher lifts.


To break in the new springs I was finding plenty of humps to flex the suspension and going over 'traffic calming' mounds etc at a faster than normal rate to bed everything in.


Think it still fills out the guard nicely. The higher you go the smaller the tyres look!


So ending up at 50mm/2" higher all round than I started. Depending on where you read, that is 1.5" over stock or 2" in the suspension alignment specifications. http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/alig...-jeep-liberty/ Centre of wheel to underside of the flare is 500mm/19.7" front and 520mm/20.5" rear.


The ride and handling I am very impressed with and far beyond what I expected, or thought possible. It is a great combination and much cheaper than going the OME route. All up, including freight locally and from the USA, it cost me $960. Cost would be no more if you specified KK King coils either from the same eBay seller at $175 a pair inc.
__________________
Cheers, Marcus.

My web site:
http://willyshotrod.com Over 5'000 Club
Likes: (1)
Post New Thread  Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On


» Advertisements_AS2
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3



All times are GMT +10. The time now is 01:54 AM.




AJOR does not vouch for or warrant the accuracy, completeness or usefulness of any message, and are not responsible for the contents of any message. The messages express the views of the author of the message, not necessarily the views of AJOR or any entity associated with AJOR, nor should any advice be substituted as technical advice replacing that of a mechanic. You agree, through your use of this service, that you will not use AJOR to post any material which is knowingly false and/or defamatory, inaccurate, abusive, vulgar, hateful, harassing, obscene, profane, sexually oriented, threatening, invasive of a person's privacy, religious, political or otherwise violative of any law. You agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyright is owned by you or by AJOR. The owner, administrators and moderators of AJOR reserve the right to delete any message or members for any or no reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold harmless AJOR, the administrators, moderators, and their agents with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). The use of profile signatures to intentionally mislead or misdirect any member on this forum is not acceptable and may result in your account being suspended. Any trip that is organised through the AJOR forum is participated at your own risk. If you or your vehicle is damaged it is your responsibility, not that of the person that posted the thread, message or topic initiating the trip, nor the organisers of AJOR or moderators of any specific forum. This forum and associated website is the property of AJOR.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.

AJOR 2002 - 2018 AUSJEEPOFFROAD.COM. All corporate trademarked names and logos are property of their respective owners. Ausjeepoffroad is in no way associated with DaimlerChrysler Corporation or Fiat Jeep.
www.midlifemate.com wayalife.com jkwrangler.com ausjeepforum.com jk-forum.com canadianjeepoffroad.com cryptoprofitcalculator.net
vB Ad Management by =RedTyger=