Cherokee -98 2.5TD stops/stalls

[amlav]

Just my 2 cents worth ....
While on the road had my engine suddenly turning off for a fraction of a second than continuing to run normaly like nothing happend than on one ocasion it stoped for good coming down on the midle of a mountain road .
Turned the key and it fired up no issues and it was good all the way home .
Had a look and checked all the visible spots where wirring rubs against engine or chasie .Could not see anything but just as a safety measure I,ve cut and inserted thick sponge pieces (like those square sponge floors sold by hardware stores) in beetwen areas where wirring was touching the chasie .
Not a problem since than ...
Diesel engines are vibrating more than petrol ones and vibration is transmited to prety much all components in engine bay including hoses ,wiring , pipes ,bolts and so on...
So ..in my case I just assume that insulation of wirring would have rubed or cut and therefore by touching the chasie was grounding the particular circuit .
Your symptoms are a bit different but it is easy to check and try to do the same thing and see how you go .
Cheers ,
Andrei

[vux]

Thx, will try to insulate the wiring from the chassi

[mud_slut]

That's a good idea too as the drb or ecu guides trouble shooting procedure usually says to check the sensors an the wiring loom for breakage for the respective system

[cheezel]

Hi All,

Mine cuts out consistently if engine braking or if RPMs go above ~2800 and then clutch (eg lazy gear change), but only when the engine is warm/hot.

I was thinking that mine potentially ould be related to a blocked EGR valve.
Logic is that its forcing too much exhaust gas into the cylinder so car stalls. Perhaps its silly logic, but I also get the vac pump kicking in for no apparent reason alot when i'm trundling along at 100kph and over the last few months my fuel consumption seems to have increased and car feels as though its making less power..

Curious that it seems to be a common (ish) issue, with varying degrees of impact - follows that something like increased soot buildup might be making it progressively worse, or perhaps rubbing wires progressively worse over time..
My car always starts stright up again (so long as I leave the ignition off for ~2 seconds before reinitialising).

I've learnt to blip the throttle when changing gears and its removed the problem for me but I don't lend my car to anyone else really..

Cheers.

[mud_slut]

Interesting point I have an egr block plate I've fabbed up and shall fit on the weekend and see if I can replicate the problem. Mine only seems to happen when hitting cancel on cruise, usually I accelerate a little bit higher and then turn the cruise control off

[vux]

Originally Posted by mud_slut

Interesting point I have an egr block plate I've fabbed up and shall fit on the weekend and see if I can replicate the problem. Mine only seems to happen when hitting cancel on cruise, usually I accelerate a little bit higher and then turn the cruise control off

I have now blocked the EGR completely. Still stalling.

I have now checked my wirings but cant find anything wrong. I have noticed that my car also hangs on idle sometimes. instead of 750o/min it stays around 1000-1100 before it settles(Maybe because of the blocked EGR?)

[mud_slut]

Originally Posted by vux

I have now blocked the EGR completely. Still stalling.

I have now checked my wirings but cant find anything wrong. I have noticed that my car also hangs on idle sometimes. instead of 750o/min it stays around 1000-1100 before it settles(Maybe because of the blocked EGR?)

Hi Vux unsure on that one I tried fitting my blocking plate the other day but the aluminum plate I used is too thick. What did you make yours out of ? Also did you use plenty of gasket goo ? Do you also notice a difference in the way it handles? I've read the acceleration should become more linear rather than kicking in massively around 2k

I was looking around on eBay the thee day and came across a maf sensor that claimed a faulty maf could cause stalling etc etc. there is a high chance it's bull*** but it could be worth looking into. Cleaning the maf or maybe temporarily replacing it with a working one from someone who might have a spare.

The other thing that comes to mind would be the no1 injector. Perhaps test the resistance to the sensor with a multimeter.

After that I'm thinking of going to jeep and getting a read out and clear of the computer and see what that says as when It stall the engine light comes on so an error code must be stored in the system somewhere