XJ Transmission Oil Coolers - Page 60 - AUSJEEPOFFROAD.COM Jeep News Australia and New Zealand

Oli-dogg · #**414** 08-10-2011

Thanks Rodgebone, you've convinced me to try a B&M stacked plate.

I ended up ordering the B&M 70264 for $136 delivered:

http://shop.rocketindustries.com.au/products/BM70264

It's a slightly smaller surface area than the 70268 but larger volume/capacity, so hopefully better cooling at lower speeds.

Hamsteh · #**415** 11-10-2011

I'm currently looking at a B&M 70268 cooler and a B&M 80212 gauge from SummitRacing, seems to be about $150 shipped through IParcel, not sure exactly what that is however.... USPS seems to be about $180 shipped

Nakkas · #**416** 12-10-2011

Hi Guys,

Just some feedback on my config. As you may know, I have a LS1 V8 and 4L60E. I run an Alloy radiator with the builtin Trans cooler on the left side of the radiator, which is the cooler side of the radiator. Never have a problem with both cooling the motor and the tranny. I highly recommend the alloy radiator. It is probably cheaper than seting up trans coolers and fans....And you get to keep the engine cool as well

Hamsteh · #**417** 01-02-2012

Okay so I have a Davies Craig 678 installed on the drivers side now, with the heat exchanger in the radiator bypassed.

I have nothing to report as yet other than the cooler doesnt seem to encourage engine overheating alongside the brand new Adrad radiator.

I have found, however, that I can get a 150 deg celcius temp guage with a 1/4" sender for about $35 so I'm pretty keen to do that.

Can I just get a 3/8", 1/4", 3/8" T-section and if so, do I run it at the outlet (hottest fluid) or the return (cooled fluid).

I figure pan would be the most accurate measurement but of the two cooler lines which is figure more indicative of an overheating auto? Most things I've read suggest outlet but in my mind the return would make the most sense... given that as long as the fluid is fairly cool upon returning to the transmission - you are not overheating?

kyphonii · #**418** 01-02-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hamsteh

Okay so I have a Davies Craig 678 installed on the drivers side now, with the heat exchanger in the radiator bypassed.

I have nothing to report as yet other than the cooler doesnt seem to encourage engine overheating alongside the brand new Adrad radiator.

I have found, however, that I can get a 150 deg celcius temp guage with a 1/4" sender for about $35 so I'm pretty keen to do that.

Can I just get a 3/8", 1/4", 3/8" T-section and if so, do I run it at the outlet (hottest fluid) or the return (cooled fluid).

I figure pan would be the most accurate measurement but of the two cooler lines which is figure more indicative of an overheating auto? Most things I've read suggest outlet but in my mind the return would make the most sense... given that as long as the fluid is fairly cool upon returning to the transmission - you are not overheating?

I have the same set up sort of and we run in the tropics.
I have 2 temp senders , one on the return at the pan and one on the out line on the transmission. the one on the cooled return line is the one to watch as the oil is all ways a bit hotter 10-15 degrees coming out the transmission, if the pan temp is climbing then your in trouble. I don't get temps over 100' ever, had this set up for about 12 months. Don't run your engine below 1800 rpm as the converter is the main heat source and it will be slipping below 1800 rpm. for a giggle watch the temp coming out the transmission with the converter held on stall, brakes lock and max rpm, the temp rockets up and in quick order you would have burnt oil. my oil has been in 12 months and is still the colour it was when it went in.
Note on the high way with the transmission locked up at cruise speed the transmission temp will drop off the scale <50 degrees.
In stop start traffic the converter is always slipping so the temp will climb, don't sit with the vehicle in gear when stationary and hold gears so the rpm is 1800 plus.

Hamsteh · #**419** 08-02-2012

Hey kyphonii,

I completely missed this reply until now. Thanks a lot for your input, when I get the gauge I'll go for a sender on the return line. When I do I'll hopefully come back with some temp stats of my own. Just gotta get the old girl back on the road first

Quote:

Originally Posted by kyphonii

I have the same set up sort of and we run in the tropics.
I have 2 temp senders , one on the return at the pan and one on the out line on the transmission. the one on the cooled return line is the one to watch as the oil is all ways a bit hotter 10-15 degrees coming out the transmission, if the pan temp is climbing then your in trouble. I don't get temps over 100' ever, had this set up for about 12 months. Don't run your engine below 1800 rpm as the converter is the main heat source and it will be slipping below 1800 rpm. for a giggle watch the temp coming out the transmission with the converter held on stall, brakes lock and max rpm, the temp rockets up and in quick order you would have burnt oil. my oil has been in 12 months and is still the colour it was when it went in.
Note on the high way with the transmission locked up at cruise speed the transmission temp will drop off the scale <50 degrees.
In stop start traffic the converter is always slipping so the temp will climb, don't sit with the vehicle in gear when stationary and hold gears so the rpm is 1800 plus.

Oli-dogg · #**420** 03-08-2012

My oil temperature sender in the transmission pan wasn't working anymore so I picked up a replacement one from SuperCheapAuto. I was in a hurry to find one and get it in while I still had the pan off but the one they gave me says "Water Temperature Sender". Are temperature senders the same for both oil and water or is this one no good: