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Old 06-09-2018
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Default thinking of buying an 06 5.7i WH Limited

Hi all,

I need a reliable car to get me through the next two years, thinking of buying an 06 5.7i WH Limited.

I'm guessing I'll get about the same fuel consumption as my old TJ?
Probably lose about two grand when I sell it?

That's why they call em grands right? - they lose about a grand a month when new and a about a grand a year after ten. Anyway, testing it soon so I thought I'd better pop in here and ask my Jeep buddies what I should be looking for?
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Old 06-09-2018
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If you need a reliable car for a couple of years there are plenty of other brands out there that actually are reliable?
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Old 06-09-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Classic Boy View Post
If you need a reliable car for a couple of years there are plenty of other brands out there that actually are reliable?
so the WH is not that reliable, ok.
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Old 06-09-2018
Amused2Death  Amused2Death is offline
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He had a questionmark at the end of the statement, and realistically any 2nd hand vehicle may or may not be reliable.

I'm having a sook about the wifes WH with the diesel merc motor at the moment but we've had it 15 months, she's got a tad over 200k on the clock so I expect a few things like front diff bushes etc are going to need some attention.

Tows the caravan easily, has done the high country around Jamieson etc with no problems.

If it checks out mechanically I can't see any problems buying one... I would buy another.
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Old 06-09-2018
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Crawl under and check the front diff bush's and prop shaft CV (transfer case). If it still has the factory plastic covers in place just shift between D and R a few times and feel for a clunk, if its quite noticeable the bush's are probably on there way out.

Check low range engages.

Check tail gate struts hold up tail gate.

Check rear glass struts holt up glass.

The gear indicator on the dash should only have the [P] around the gear you are in, if they are all in brackets the shifter itself will need cleaning or replacing.

Make sure aircon works in manual mode by selecting low on the temp knobs and fan in the middle range. If air doesn't switch as you selected different vents (on both sides) then there could be blend door issues.
If it doesn't seam cold enough there could be evaporator issues and that means pulling the dash out to fix.

The 6 disk CD players are getting old so check it still switch's between cd's.

In most cases the drivers seat cushion will be cracked and an OEM replacement will be around $250 on eBay.

Look for signs of wet carpet on the passenger side, this is caused by a blocked sunroof drain.

5.7 can drop a valve seat but there is no way of predicting this.

Reliability
I can only talk from my CRD perspective, in the last 6 years I have had 1 break down (Prop shaft CV failed) needing a tow.
Replaced transmission as I felt it was on its way out.
Replace injectors at 250,000km.
I have replaced ball joints , CV's and bush's also but name a 12 year old car that's driven daily that hasn't had these things replaced.
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Old 06-09-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clarky View Post
Crawl under and check
Thanks so much Clarky, that's the sort of info i'm looking for. Going to make a list and check off those things.

I cant do much mechanical work myself, getting too old, although I can change out a drive shaft on my TJ and do all the basic maintenance but don't have a well equipped garage...

ballpark figure on fixing front diff bush's?
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Old 06-09-2018
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It cost me a few skinned knuckle's, half a swear jar and a set of these https://www.jeeperf.com/product-page...al-bushing-set.

Used a Ball Joint G clamp to press them out and back in.

Look here for an idea what needs to be done
https://www.jeepcommander.com/forums...arts-ebay.html
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Old 07-09-2018
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I'd consider my hemi reliable... it's definitely not "unreliable".
Clarky covered the common WH quirks/issues.

Like he says the only major thing you'll find about the 5.7 hemi itself is the valve seat failures. There's enough reports on different forums and info from a few mopar tuners to be pretty-sure there's something happening, but considering the engine is in a crapload of cars, I'm not too nervous about it.

The info suggest it's related to heat-soak in the head after shutdown, which was a common issue in the old-days before retained valve seats... the hemi doesn't have retained valve seats, so it makes sense.

It shouldn't be a problem as-long as you avoid shutting down when hot then cranking it shortly afterwards. Such as fanging it hard to the servo and filling up. I try to let it idle for a couple of minutes before shutting down, and tend to spend a while filling-up an aux tank + main tank.

I've also put a thermo fan with a timer, which has reduced heat-soak slightly, and have an electric bypass water pump to install when I get a chance, to keep coolant circulating for a few minutes after shutting down. The yamaha V8 in our Volvo does that and stays cooler after shutting down, it's a much more refined engine too, so figure there's probably a good reason they did it.

The 545rfe transmission in the hemi is rated for higher torque in the RAM pickups, and seems pretty bullet-proof.

My WH is only used for travelling/touring, and an occasional run to the shops when it's been sitting too long. Never been worried about taking it into the middle of nowhere.
Only engine/trans-related issues have been a failed/jammed EGR valve, failed oil pressure sender and a flooded fuel vapour canister, never prevented from driving though.
Most engine codes (like the EGR valve and oil pressure sender.) cause the MDS to be disabled, which can mean your fuel consumption takes a hit.

The flood fuel vapour canister is a funny one. Basically if you overfill the tank and it floods the canister, it'll stall a few seconds after starting (when the vapour recovery system opens.). Fix is to just drain the canister or wait for the excess fuel to evaporate.
Not sure how likely it is with just the stock fuel tank. I've done it a couple of times when I've filled the aux tank to the top of the filler then parked on an angle. Just due to how the aux tank overflow is plumbed.

Stock with correct engine oil and MDS working propertly should get around ~11-12L/100 cruising, maybe 10L/100 at 90km/hr haha, and ~13-14L/100 around town.
I have a 50mm lift, boxes on the roof and around ~350kg of gear, and with MDS disabled and 31" highway tyres atm I'm getting about 16-17L/100 around town being fairly light on the pedal. With 32-33" muds it'd get around 18L/100 without MDS.

MDS is great on long trips if you 'play' the system a bit. For example, sometimes sitting at 102km/hr could put you at say 14L/100, where-as 100km/hr might let MDS kick-in for longer and the torque converter lock and get you down to like 8L/100. Something to do when you're driving in a straight line for 8 hours too
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