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Old 09-08-2005
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It's still rego'd, but I never (ever) drive it on the road (ever)... and probably never will.

You live in NSW.

S.
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...the other thing that I didn't mention was that with a single ended cylinder, you get more turning force in one direction than you do in the other - due to the displacement of the shaft on one side.

With a single ended cylinder I am not sure how it would behave in regards to return to centre either... not that it should matter much for a rockcrawler, but with the POS system it returns to centre when driving just like any other regular steering setup.

S.
the difference in force left/right isn't noticable. it is a c_ntload of force both ways, so you don't really pick it up. especially considering that force is always different one way to the other depending on sidehill or where the tyres are jammed up against, etc..

return to centre is based around a load reactive orbital, which doesn't work with a single ended ram due to the fluid unbalance in the system. for a straight out rockcrawler it is arguably better to have no return to centre, as you can point the wheels somewhere and forget about them while you concentrate on other things. that's more about personal preference and driving style though..

one thing i forgot to say before is you should limit the travel of your ram to suit your steering throw, standard steering stops don;t last long when the ram is trying to push the knuckles off the housing. tie-rods and rod ends don't cop it well either no matter how beef you make them.
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Old 09-08-2005
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The vacuum line from the reservoir to the pump should be as short as possible, and at least -10 rated. In general I have seen recomendations of no longer than 16" in places, and no longer than a couple of feet in places, and no longer than a foot in places... basically as short as possible
this is where the factory type pumps with built in resivoirs shine. half your cavitation and lock problems disappear when you get rid of that particular hose.
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Old 09-08-2005
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I am unsure how the setup works for setting the lock to lock and also the travel of the ram? I that based on the orb?
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I am unsure how the setup works for setting the lock to lock and also the travel of the ram? I that based on the orb?
I am not sure the valve has anything to do with it...

I believe the travel of the ram is directly related to the size and stroke of the ram, and also where you position it on the diff housing.
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Old 09-08-2005
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I am unsure how the setup works for setting the lock to lock and also the travel of the ram? I that based on the orb?
nah, the orbital will keep extending the ram as long as there is more ram to extend.

the easiest way to do it with an ag type clevis ended ram (if you can physically fit it in the right position) is to mount the ram so that at full extension you are a millimetre or so of one steering stop. then steer the axle so you are a millimetre off the other stop, measure the exposed amount of shaft left, machine a spacer out of delrin or uhmwe (old body lift block), unscrew the clevis off the shaft slide the spacer on, then screw the clevis back on. you now have exactly the right amount of shaft throw.

if you don't have that much room, you can mount the ram so that at full compression you are a hair off one steering stop, then weld a nice big lug onto the axle housing to stop the ram mount on the tie rod at the right amount of extension.

obviously the best way is to have a ram that is already the exact throw you need, but you already have a ram, so either of those methods will work for taking the load off the rest of the system.

the setup on my first buggy wasn't limited, and that in conjunction with the ram being about 15mm off parallel with the tie-rod used to fatigue and stress a lot of stuff.
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the way I did it was when I git my high steer arms they were un-drilled... and we drilled the holes in the steering arm so that the steering left to right was where I wanted it, and the ram hit the end of it's travel in both directions at the same point.

If you hit your steering stops before your ram is fully extended, it can rip your knuckles off let alone your steering stops...

And return to centre doesn't mean that when you take your hands off the wheel it goes back to centre... it means that it is just like regular power steering. If you are moving at speed and you take your hands off in the middle of a turn it will return to centre as long as your wheel alignment (and castor) is OK.

If you turn when stationary and take your hands off it will stay wherever it is pointed.

My cylinder is an 8" travel jobby - that is the most common length used.

S.
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That brings another question Wendle, does the ram need to be parallel to the tie rod? I have heard that it does to prevent stress on components.
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That brings another question Wendle, does the ram need to be parallel to the tie rod? I have heard that it does to prevent stress on components.
yep. as close as you can get it. in the horizontal plane it will never be perfect as the tie-rod moves closer and further form the axle housing as the steering cycles, i split the difference when i mounted up my new one. in the vertical plane there is no reason it can't be spot on.
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