Rear Brake drum/disc removal

[bleetnblurt]

funny thing that , gets that way when rust and dirt get between the flat of the axle and rotor , pelted mine with a soft mallet , and the other side with bolt and nut way ,
but after done I placed (smeared) a thin coat of water resistant grease so that the buggers do not stick again, if a drum the brake pads can sit into the drum itself , this is caused by hard wear pads eating the drum out or soft cheap aftermarket drums ,
or remembering to release the hand brake

[drover]

They were stuck because I was too lazy to pull them off over the years, don't think they have been off in 10 yrs, have only changed the pads twice they wear well, if I'd popped the drum off occasionally to clean and check things I wouldn't have been caught out, sometimes the old " if it aint broke don't touch it" can come back to bite you.

[bleetnblurt]

Originally Posted by drover

They were stuck because I was too lazy to pull them off over the years, don't think they have been off in 10 yrs, have only changed the pads twice they wear well, if I'd popped the drum off occasionally to clean and check things I wouldn't have been caught out, sometimes the old " if it aint broke don't touch it" can come back to bite you.

10 years without a proper service ?
mmm might have to think on what else has not been done ?

[drover]

It has been serviced better than genuine but while replacing pads, and servicing the calipers I didn't really see any need to take off the drum as the handbrake worked fine and the rotor wasn't worn that much, been doing it for the last 200,000k so know whats been done to it as I'm the spanner bloke, also know who to blame....lol.

[bleetnblurt]

well , we all sometimes forget , I grab a bit of grease and some dot paper (toilet) and rub some onto the axle hub (the flat of course) due to the centre that the rotor sits on is pretty tight , and the flat area makes a really good "seal" but also not to forget that if ever greasing under a 4x4 , not all grease is the same , as there is a difference between ball joint and wheel bearing grease , and most greases will eat rubber, just like cv boots so on , a nice marine grease would be good for the rotor flat and hub (and I do mean thin as you don't want that stuff going all over the hand brake pads) but can cost a little more . something else I noticed that the jeeps suffer is where the base spring rubber goes on , seem to suffer rust , popping the spring out on the fronts and maybe sticking industrial rust primer on and maybe a bit of paint wouldn't hurt either , the best rust converter I ever used was green in colour and could withstand up exhaust heat , it would get a white powder after drying , if it could withstand exhaust heat it could withstand just about anything , BUT alas I cant find it here
the last place I got was from brissy in geebung (a paint place ) just off from neman road just after the railway crossing. stuff called PLUS industrial strength rust converter and primer . im sure it could be bought elsewhere.

[bleetnblurt]

this is the stuff here , I cant get it though
http://www.rust-converter.com.au/

[senatorjohn]

Best way to remove rusted on rotors or brake drums is the oxy torch. Run the flame around the face of the rotor/disc just inside the bolts while tapping the offending part with a soft hammer or block of wood. Easy to tell then when it comes loose then without overheating. Generally no need to get it really hot which will cause distortion.
John