Fault Code's C2105,B1B02,B1B06

[rbr77]

Hi all 1st post but have been reading forum for awhile and was hoping for a little help.
I purchased a 2011 Jeep KK 3.7 V6 late last year which had a few fault lights. Yes I know I should have ran LOL
Anyway the lights that stay on are as follows. Stability Control Warning, ABS Warning, Airbag Warning and Brake Warning.
The car drives fine BTW
I Had a mechanic do a scan and the following came back.
Antilock brakes
C2105 ABS Valve Supply Voltage Circuit Low

Airbag
B1B02 Driver Airbag Squib 1 Circuit Open
B1B06 Driver Airbag Squib 2 Circuit Open

Before the scan my web searches led me to believe possible Wheel speed sensors and Clock Spring But the scan seems to suggest otherwise.
I normally do my own servicing and general repairs but the electrical side has me stumped.
If anyone could please help if they have experienced similar issues or any recommendations of good jeep mechanic's around Sydney would be much appreciated
Thanks in Advance

[Classic Boy]

I would be checking for power and grounds at the ABS CONTROL module as a first step. I agree it is likely the car needs a new clockspring.

[rbr77]

Thanks for your reply. I actually purchased a used replacement ABS module and pump unit, but have been reading that they need to be flashed to Vin # and may not be possible? I will have a good look at existing units wiring and plug tomorrow.
Thanks again

[Wiz.au]

Having just replaced a ClockSpring, and found the new part to be FAULTY I concur about the clockspring, and I'll explain why....

My first issue was AirBag Squibs.... I did all the tests with the resistors across the squib connectors, etc, and came back to faulty Clockspring cable, as is often the case for AirBag Squib Codes.

So I ordered a new part from Rock Auto and went with the SP Product part, as it was the only aftermarket part available, and even the Mopar genuine part was showing no stock.

I installed it and started getting 'Steering Angle Sensor'(SAS) and 'ABS' codes thrown up everywhere. The car was also intermittently locking up the left front wheel and the Traction Control light would start flashing at first, then stay on, until I cycled the key Off/On, & Restarted the engine. And then we'd be fine for another week, or two or three, when most often pulling out from the curb (going lock to lock just about), the whole shenanigans would kick off again.

Eventually I placed a warranty claim with Rock Auto and they sent me a replacement after I paid for the new one, and they credited me for returning the old one, for USD$18 using their return shipping option. But I still won't get my refund until they get the old part, fingers crossed.

So far this new part checks out, and the OBD data showing for SAS is +/-620Deg Lock to Lock, which is within the 720Deg Limit that throws codes if it is exceeded, or the value provided by the SAS is "out of spec" or "illogical" using the 'Comparative Data" that the ECU has.

But the interesting thing here (sorry if I'm waffling) is that it also started throwing ABS codes, and researching it led me to understand the SAS, in the Clockspring, is actually part of the ABS Control network!

So, it's not unusual for ABS codes to be thrown for a broken Clockspring, as the SAS data goes through that cable too. Any issues with that, and you get ABS codes in the mix.

Oh, and I found out the hard way, if you leave the radio on and the battery goes flat, you get crap loads of "Voltage Low" codes, not JUST the ABS. But.... Yes, Could be something just as simple as the battery went flat one day, hence "Low Voltage" is thrown. We had big issues with the BMW R1100 motorcycles as when you turned the key and hit the starter straight away, it was half way through the ABS Power On Self Test (POST) and it would throw ABS codes due to the low battery voltage (<11.1v) whilst performing ABS POST at exactly the same time the starter drew high current to start the bike and the voltage dropped below 11v. A bulletin went out advising all owners to wait until all the dash lights go out before hitting the starter button! Why do an engineering fix when you can do an administrative fix and put it back on the owners! Yeah, good one BMW.

[rbr77]

Originally Posted by Wiz.au

Having just replaced a ClockSpring, and found the new part to be FAULTY I concur about the clockspring, and I'll explain why....

My first issue was AirBag Squibs.... I did all the tests with the resistors across the squib connectors, etc, and came back to faulty Clockspring cable, as is often the case for AirBag Squib Codes.

So I ordered a new part from Rock Auto and went with the SP Product part, as it was the only aftermarket part available, and even the Mopar genuine part was showing no stock.

I installed it and started getting 'Steering Angle Sensor'(SAS) and 'ABS' codes thrown up everywhere. The car was also intermittently locking up the left front wheel and the Traction Control light would start flashing at first, then stay on, until I cycled the key Off/On, & Restarted the engine. And then we'd be fine for another week, or two or three, when most often pulling out from the curb (going lock to lock just about), the whole shenanigans would kick off again.

Eventually I placed a warranty claim with Rock Auto and they sent me a replacement after I paid for the new one, and they credited me for returning the old one, for USD$18 using their return shipping option. But I still won't get my refund until they get the old part, fingers crossed.

So far this new part checks out, and the OBD data showing for SAS is +/-620Deg Lock to Lock, which is within the 720Deg Limit that throws codes if it is exceeded, or the value provided by the SAS is "out of spec" or "illogical" using the 'Comparative Data" that the ECU has.

But the interesting thing here (sorry if I'm waffling) is that it also started throwing ABS codes, and researching it led me to understand the SAS, in the Clockspring, is actually part of the ABS Control network!

So, it's not unusual for ABS codes to be thrown for a broken Clockspring, as the SAS data goes through that cable too. Any issues with that, and you get ABS codes in the mix.

Oh, and I found out the hard way, if you leave the radio on and the battery goes flat, you get crap loads of "Voltage Low" codes, not JUST the ABS. But.... Yes, Could be something just as simple as the battery went flat one day, hence "Low Voltage" is thrown. We had big issues with the BMW R1100 motorcycles as when you turned the key and hit the starter straight away, it was half way through the ABS Power On Self Test (POST) and it would throw ABS codes due to the low battery voltage (<11.1v) whilst performing ABS POST at exactly the same time the starter drew high current to start the bike and the voltage dropped below 11v. A bulletin went out advising all owners to wait until all the dash lights go out before hitting the starter button! Why do an engineering fix when you can do an administrative fix and put it back on the owners! Yeah, good one BMW.

Hi Wiz
Thanks for detailed reply.
Were you getting only ABS light or others as well ?
As in my post I stated that:
[Antilock brakes
C2105 ABS Valve Supply Voltage Circuit Low]
was coming up too. I have purchased I used replacement ABS Module unit But have read on other forums that sometimes these need to be flashed to the car?
Replacing parts I am fine at but getting onto all the programming etc I am not LOL
Hoping you or someone else may know the answer.

Thanks

[Wiz.au]

For the FAULTY Steering Angle sensor in the faulty clockspring, the ABS light did NOT come on. There were simply ABS Codes in the mix when the trouble codes were read. And the MIL/Check Engine light was NOT on. The only dash light I ever had come on was the Traction Control light.