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  #16752  
Old 17-12-2015
anthonygubbin  anthonygubbin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junglejuice View Post
A) if you use a suitable controller there should be no reason to have a flat starting battery as nothing should be run off of this when the car is off.
B) if you choose to run heavy cable through the car unprotected IMHO is plain stupid, if the battery is capable of supplying enough amps to run a starter then the short circuit current will be enough to set fire to your car in case of a crash....

My aux battery is just that, an aux battery for use with fridges etc, I don't have or want the option to try and start from it, if I was desperate and needed to do this out bush I'd remove the reat battery and jump start off it with it out of the car.
IMHO if you want dual starting battery options put them both under the bonnet...
X2 on what JJ said. I had an 80ah/650cca crank/deep cycle aux and a stock main under my bonnet and it worked a treat once I finally had the job done right, only took me three years and a knowledgeable auto electrician to finally get me sorted. I installed a HD override switch instead of trying to run through the solenoid. I actually had a need for an under bonnet dual battery set up because I had a 12T winch I needed to drive.
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  #16753  
Old 17-12-2015
anthonygubbin  anthonygubbin is offline
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Originally Posted by Richard buttocks View Post
we go by "b&s" at work for all our heavy cable sizes
even our suppliers use b&s as their main sizing

i guess it all depends on the industry you are in...
Every auto electrician I have used or spoken to calls anything 8bs or thicker cable BS. I used to buy cable from Autopro and they too called it BS as did my old local Autobarn..... I really have only have ever heard it called BS, when speaking about auto cable. On some of the thinner gear like 6mm twin I have heard it called 6mm..... But I agree with RB depends on the trade. Compared to 240v and higher the way it is measured is not the same, but in my experience if you tried to talk in real terms of the amount of copper in an auto cable auto electricians would probably be thinking you mean something in a higher rating.


Regards A
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  #16754  
Old 17-12-2015
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My Dana 44 rear axle was fitted today. All went well as it was an XJ one. the brakes are bigger, 10 inch instead of nine. The slave cylinder is smaller to compensate. The braking on my 31s has been vastly improved. No more standing on the pedal. My drums seem out of round though. I will suss that issue out tomorrow.
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  #16755  
Old 17-12-2015
anthonygubbin  anthonygubbin is offline
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Have you got a braided rear line Rusty? If not get one and I can tell you the brakes will improve even more, even though they are only rears.. I was surprised how much better brakes I had by just swapping the line on my 8.25 axle.

Regards A
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  #16756  
Old 17-12-2015
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rustynuts  rustynuts is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anthonygubbin View Post
Have you got a braided rear line Rusty? If not get one and I can tell you the brakes will improve even more, even though they are only rears.. I was surprised how much better brakes I had by just swapping the line on my 8.25 axle.

Regards A
A new longer braided rear brake line was fitted with the diff change. The pedal firmness has improved a lot.
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"98 XJ. RE 3.5 inch lift. Dana 44. 4.11's. 32's
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  #16757  
Old 18-12-2015
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Well I replaced out all 4 shockies, as two had started to leak months ago, scored a near new set of another member, they came off his KJ. And fitted a bar with winch, also found on this site.
Next is the rear brakes. Lucky I only have 4 weeks off or I will end up broke....
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Last edited by ajs18s; 18-12-2015 at 09:24 AM.
  #16758  
Old 18-12-2015
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junglejuice  junglejuice is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajs18s View Post
Well I replaced out all 4 shockies, as two had started to leak months ago, scored a near new set of another member, they came off his KJ. And fitted a bar with winch, also found on this site.
Next is the rear brakes. Lucky I only have 4 weeks off or I will end up broke....
Kj shocks fit???
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