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  #28  
Old 18-01-2017
07commander  07commander is offline
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HUUUUUUUUMMMMMM seems like a good idea do you need a ecu edit like gde or something first? how hard of a job is it sounds like it could be a bit difficult but changing glow plugs was meant to be a challenge.
  #29  
Old 29-01-2017
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Default CRD Swirl Valve Removal

Summary of where I'm up to


Disconnect the motor and all the connecting rods


Heat the swirl valve flaps,
they are only held on with two tiny spot welds,
so orange was hot enough


Grab on and rip those spot weld apart
*Try not to lean the alloy to much


The shafts are held in by infernal plastic plugs
I found a 5.5mm drill bit fitted inside the slot of inlet manifold


Then simply pull out the entire shaft.


Noting there are plastic bushes top, centre and bottom.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Fd...hH7IpEXlgfBr2A

Removal is that easy

Last edited by ren0vator; 29-06-2017 at 05:13 PM.
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  #30  
Old 29-01-2017
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Default Swirl Valve Shaft In Fill

So now that we've just made a hole in the head,
obviously we've got to fill it up


Including the shaft bushes, the bore diameter is just over 8mm
The depth is <38mm to the inlet port
So I chose a 10mm by 35mm bolt to fill the empty bore
The masking tape is set at 35mm


Drill down 35mm with an 8mm bit
Luckily the alloy is quite soft
Only had to use two taps, starter and plug


Tap the thread
Wind the tap in until the tape touches the manifold
Apply Stud Locker to the bolts
And there we have it

Last edited by ren0vator; 29-06-2017 at 05:20 PM.
  #31  
Old 29-01-2017
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Default Port Matching

Couldn't help myself
I noticed the inlet ports are smaller than in the head

See the tiny excess of metal around the gasket on the head


Compared to the larger excess of metal on the inlet manifold


So mark the excess metal with paint and
out with my favourite set of die grinding bits


Enlarging and shaping the back of the ports took many hours
even with the soft alloy manifolds


Finally there was still some gaps at the bottom of the
inlet manifold ports, where the shaft bushes were
Simply fill with some epoxy like JB Weld and clean with die grinder

Last edited by ren0vator; 29-06-2017 at 06:40 PM.
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  #32  
Old 29-01-2017
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Default Swirl Motor Mount

If you are not reusing the swirl motor
Note that one of the bolts goes all the
way through into the right hand manifold chamber
Remember to use Thread Locker and install resistor mod

P.S. If anyone needs a swirl motor

Last edited by ren0vator; 29-06-2017 at 06:42 PM. Reason: P.S.
  #33  
Old 11-02-2017
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Default Crank Fuel No Start

Have the engine back together
Have bled the low pressure side of the fuel system


Cranking but no fire
So hot, I've probably had a few too many beers
To keep cool of course
Hoping I've forgotten an electrical connection
Out with the software, when it cools down
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Last edited by ren0vator; 29-06-2017 at 06:44 PM.
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  #34  
Old 12-02-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ren0vator View Post
Have the engine back together
Have bled the low pressure side of the fuel system


Cranking but no fire
So hot, I've probably had a few too many beers
To keep cool of course
Hoping I've forgotten an electrical connection
Out with the software, when it cools down
I remember reading some where they are self bleeding, and i know some times with self bleeding it can take ages to bleed up. hopefully its something like that or something just as simple.
  #35  
Old 12-02-2017
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Default Fuel System Bleeding

Quote:
Originally Posted by 07commander View Post
I remember reading some where they are self bleeding, and i know some times with self bleeding it can take ages to bleed up. hopefully its something like that or something just as simple.
Yeah common rail systems have such high pressure the air doesn't stand a chance
Pulled two codes today;
P2010, so I plugged a new resistor into the swirl motor connector
P0670, dunno where that came from (better double check glowplug module)
Cleared the codes
Still no start

hmmm, What's that strong smell of diesel? Dumbass left the fuel rail conection pipe loose. Crank, crank, Flat battery.

Oh well, bring the battery charger home from work tomorrow.

Also a vague memory of an earth connection on the left hand side of the engine Tomorrow's another day
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  #36  
Old 18-02-2017
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Default It goes

Finally

All it turned out to be was a loose injector line between the two rails
After a short drive around this morning, what a difference.

No more push the accelerator, make a cup of tea, then get ready for take off
Turbo lag almost completely gone and way more responsive

And I've done pretty well, with only a few left overs


And if I had to do this job again, I wouldn't do it during the middle of Summer in Far North Qld
This was a very difficult job, with alloy bolts all different sizes,
be sure to keep them in separate lots as you disassemble your motor.

Now, what's next?
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Last edited by ren0vator; 29-06-2017 at 06:49 PM.
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