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  #28  
Old 13-09-2018
G.man  G.man is offline
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Thanks guys,

Clarky, If you are referring to electronic stability control... that came out after 2013 I think.

I am looking for a TD5 Defender 2002-2006. Trick will be finding a good one.
  #29  
Old 14-09-2018
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I don't know if it was the same for all years but the Defender's drivers seat was a bit too close to the B-pillar. I am tall and if I moved the driver's seat all the way back, my shoulder presses against the B pillar. Lean a bit to the left and the pedal position becomes uncomfortable over long distances. Move the seat a bit forward so I can wind down the window and use the sill as an armrest and my knees hit the dash. And don't get me started on the handbrake position...

I have massive respect for 80s because I have seen first-hand how tough they are. BTW they do have one thing in common with the JKU - the handbrake is not to be trusted!!!
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  #30  
Old 14-09-2018
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Originally Posted by st_za View Post
I don't know if it was the same for all years but the Defender's drivers seat was a bit too close to the B-pillar. I am tall and if I moved the driver's seat all the way back, my shoulder presses against the B pillar. Lean a bit to the left and the pedal position becomes uncomfortable over long distances. Move the seat a bit forward so I can wind down the window and use the sill as an armrest and my knees hit the dash. And don't get me started on the handbrake position...
+1 st za, yes it is the same for all of them.
Defer seat only moves about 10cm back to forwards. You just can't compare a Defer to a JK Wrangler (at least to my Wrangler). Driving position, comfort, cruising ability, performance etc etc. As I've said, the Wrangler is closer to a Range Rover than a Defender!

There is a very good reason why defer drivers drive with their window down (other than the fact the aircon is useless) and it all has to do with being able to turn the steering wheel.

If the OP is serious about buying a TD5 I just hope he is fully aware of their issues and their constraints . I loved my TD5, but I had to do a lot of mods to make reliable. So, in good faith, my OP friend, if you are looking at a TD5 then here are some things to consider:
1. In stock engine form, expect to cruise to FNQ at around 90km/h on the highway. It will do more, but you'll be pushing it and your economy will show. Hills will slow you down more than you want. Add a decent remapped ECU and it will help greatly. Remove all mufflers etc for a straight through exhaust and that also helps (and isn't really any louder - turbo takes care of that). Upgrade turbo and that will also help (about $350 from UK for a performance one - keep your stock for a spare - it's about a 15 minute swap over with basic tools on the side of the road). Do all that and you can cruise at 110 with better economy and it will pull like a bloody train and get rid of the turbo lag at low RPM (especially good in sandy situations). HOWEVER, it will also dramatically increase your exhaust gas temps if you start really pushing it. It will hammer hard but that is the trade-off and it can be catastrophic for a TD5. IMO, essential that you fit an exhaust gas temp gauge if you do any engine mods.
2. Replace your turbo anyway. They have a habit of the inner seal failing that can result in a runaway state - and that is terrifying
. That's actually a TD200. But the goose below continued to drive his TD5 in a runaway state until it ran out of oil
Of course, had he pulled over, it woudn't have made any difference as once the turbo seals let go the engine just continues to suck out all the oil until it runs dry and self destructs - no you can't turn it off.
3. Ensure that you either pull the head off and replace the plastic dowels with steel ones (no I'm not kidding), or make sure that you have documented evidence that this has been done. Otherwise going up north, high temps, towing, engine mods etc. can all contribute to higher engine temps and then the plastic dowels soften and allow the head to walk. Result is leaking coolant, overheating, blown head gasket, warped head (it's an alloy head and hates getting overheated at the best of times).
4. Don't expect the air con to keep you cool once outside temps start to climb over 30 degrees. Might as well turn it off and open all the windows - of course you'll have to do that manually. Problem then is with the drivers window that the handle will will be sticking into you leg as there is only about 10mm between the door and your body (see above).
5. Replace fuel pump. They are also a bugger for letting go. Keep the old one as a spare though. The good thing is that they will run without the pump working, but you won't go very fast, but the engine will run. But of course that can cause confusion if your TD5 will start and idle all day long but won't accelerate.
6. Check rear engine seal. They also have a habit of weeping and they are a real pain to replace.
7. Oil still leaking? Check the fuel pressure regulator, another common issue, but an easy fix.
8. Replace both MAF and MAP sensors.

I could go on and be happy to help. But to be honest, are you happy to accept all those issues? Of course you could be very fortunate and not have a single problem - but I reckon you'd be lucky, unless you can find one with all those things already addressed. Don't get me wrong, I loved my Defer, and mine was in exceptional condition and why I got top dollar for it. So even though it was unstoppable as a fwd, but given the extremely poor ergonomics, noise, heat and slowness, I still don't think I would trust it to drive to the cape and back IF I had another choice. I'd buy a Wrangler (I did) or an 80 series for sure. So I'd be ignoring the romanticism of the 'land rover' and enjoying my trip away in hopefully something less potentially troublesome.

Last edited by clip; 14-09-2018 at 08:43 PM.
  #31  
Old 15-09-2018
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Couldn't you go into top gear & get hard on the brakes to stall it out? At least if it was a manual?

Quote:
Originally Posted by G.man View Post
What BS?

The Wrangler is tighter for leg position to us and I'm only 5'9 and slim build.

The pedals in Wrangler are further under the dash giving legs more stretch, but side-side movement where feet can be placed felt more crammed and I definitely noticed my right leg knee-down was jammed on the door with my right foot on the accelerator pedal.
Maybe it is how I sit (relaxed lounge chair type position) but that is how it was for me.

Anyway, I appreciated the feedback but as other said, until you sit in one, you just don't know. I was able to sit in both in 1 day which was a bonus because had it been later in the week, you could say "you forgot what it felt like".

So either way I had a successful weekend and now know what suits me.

Space was always a big factor, so if seating position, leg room etc was all equal dimensions/comfort, the wrangler would still be low on space (comparatively speaking).

Great car for a day out, just not suitable to us, especially for long distance in that position.
That's probably what it is. I'm 5'10", but as I prefer to sit more upright, my right leg isn't against the door, even with the wedge under the accelerator to bring the pedal higher & more in line with the brake. You're right about the lateral room though.

As for comments about useless handbrakes in them both, I was speaking to a mechanic & mentioned that & his response was that it is the same for pretty much all 4wds, regardless of brand.
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  #32  
Old 15-09-2018
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As for comments about useless handbrakes in them both, I was speaking to a mechanic & mentioned that & his response was that it is the same for pretty much all 4wds, regardless of brand.
Only for the ones that have the handbrake on the driveshaft.
  #33  
Old 15-09-2018
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Thanks for the feedback.

I didn't mention the handbrake being in the way of the leg (worst place ever to put one) because I can get the handbrake relocated so it is not digging into my left leg (problem solved). I have heard of people relocating the seat brackets... you can get longer ones by 4" to give you more front-rear room, but also put in a different position so that you are not right up against the B-pillar.

I didn't notice the B-pillar, probably because I am not 6 foot and 100kg. So for me, it was fine. One thing I did like though is that you can just lean over and look from your position right down the side of the car to the bottom (top down look).

TD5 has a lot of issues, but at the same time, the 'good ones' were actually more reliable than the older tdi200-300 motors and much easier to work on than the Puma engine from the Ford in the current models. Also if an Automatic gearbox conversion is done (which I would like eventually), it would be the disco 2 as they ha the TD5 with Auto. While with the Puma engine... going to be a lot more complicated.

I figured a good reliable TD5 (which they are, besides the lemons) is going to be the best compromise for simplicity and improvement.

Will see what happens.

I was with a guy that has his TD5 remapped, more power, he has a 2002 model TD5 and he has never had any problems with it. Most reliable vehicle he ever drove.

He had more problems with Hilux and other vehicles than he ever did with the Defender. Think it just depends which one you end up with. If you get a good one, you are set, if you get a bad one, always gonna have problems.
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