VM Diesel - what to watch for

[rollas]

Would like to start a topic in the diesel for those that have them and those that are looking at them in their next Jeep.

Preventive maintenance is the idea and as we all have a bit of knowledge on what can and will go wrong with these motors starting a list which would highlight these items so they can be addressed seems like a good idea.

So maybe all those that have a diesel can advise on what they have found and done to fix? Maybe the year/motor name (cheetah) and transmission as well?

2007 - 2011
Turbo/intercooler hose made of rubber that splits from deteriorating after a couple of years of crankcase oil coating the inside.
Replace with Samco silicon hose to fix.
2011 - current
Turbo hoses now made of silicon.

2007 - 2011
GDE tune can shut down the EGR
2011 - current
No known tune at this stage.

Any other items to add seeing as how this motor gets bagged so much on here?

[MidnightMods]

Timing belts shouldn't be left till they get too 100k, I have just done a few 2007 belt changes because they have just hit 100k, and found due to the age the tensioner was about to fall apart or seize up. Do NOT leave it too late.

Remove the crank case breather pipe from the rocker cover to the intake asap, remove it completely or use a provent200.

serpentine belt tensioner (fan belt tensioner) tends to fail with age (4-5 years or 100k)

Manual dual mass flywheel rubber center wears out, Poor design, should not have been matched to the engine in the first place. Now aftermarket solid flywheels around.


For those who bash the diesel engines saying they are rubbish, it has been by far the best engine I have worked on, coming from over 10 years of engine building all types of petrol engines (big hp charged race engines), the design is fantastic. small displacement, big power out put and great fuel eco.

A big Pro is if the timing belt breaks, or you swallow some water. the rocker arms are deigned to break to prevent engine damage, these can be easily replaced and engine back up and running with out a massive bill.

Remove the rear muffler has great gains, Best free mod you can do to the car and it just slides off

GDE tune is the best thing you can do for the engine in terms of long lasting and clean running, turning the EGR has massive gains to engine life. The useable power gain is a massive bonus and the saving in fuel pays for itself over time. Can not recommend this enough to the CRD owners. Its not a power house tune so do not expect to be a race car, But it helps with towing and off roading.

[jeep112]

Hey mm do you have any pics of this rocler cover hose?
Is it that little hose on top pf the engine that seems to be oily....?
Also what else would you recommend be changed at tje same time as timing belt (eg. Injectors, pulleys, serpentine belt,)


Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

[MidnightMods]

Jeep112.
I will get some pictures of the hose, it is the one that is at the rear (next to the firewall) on the drivers side, it has a can shape sticking out of the rocker cover with a hose which goes into the intake hose for the airbox to turbo.

Timing belt change . Change Serpentine belt and tensioner, Change timing belt and tensioner, new cam cap seal, replace the 4 crank shaft pulley bolts, I now include these free of charge when you buy a timing belt kit as I have had a few of the bolts stretch.

There is also a clutch fan assy that is around $55usd, I am yet to fit mine but have heard many good reports about added cooling and more airflow.
While you are doing the timing belt you have already removed the Pain in the A$# fan so it is a good time to change it.

It is also a great time to remove the radiator and give it a bath, ALOT of fine sand and dust makes it way into the fins and clogs them over time. Again when doing the timing belt or serpentine belt/tensioner change you already have fan shroud removed and fan so you might as well remove the radiator for a clean, You use Zerex G-05 made by Valvoline as new coolant, It is very important not to use the wrongcoolant.

[cpm]

Good thread! Have read a couple if threads where the injectors are near impossible to remove due to rust etc, anything we can do to prevent this?

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

[MightyMouse]

Just look at the whats filling Jeep workshops and needing engine parts - JK 2.8 VM diesels...

And Jeep ( VM ) isn't alone, its a characteristic of light weight modern diesel engines from all manufacturers. Work with the diesel service guys... its a common theme.

The average buyer of new diesel powered vehicles just doesn't understand that the traditional diesel reliability was brought about by massive components ( LOTS of torque but very unresponsive and limited rev range ) - but the shift to light weight components has changed all that.

They are much nicer to drive, more responsive and with a wider rev range but the sheer brute strength has gone. If it wasn't for the sophisticated electronics they just wouldn't be workable - its a revolution in diesel engine management not a miracle of diesel engine construction.

[chris0375]

subscribed. I too would love to know what can be done to prevent injectors seizing. Is a coat of good old anti seize going to help?