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  #8  
Old 28-10-2010
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Cheap lift........ yep use a jack

You get exactly what you pay for, lifting a vehicle doesn't just affect the obvious things like spring height it affects many other components and some of the suspension design criteria - ALL of which affect the outcome.

Just a few things that change or need to change ....

Required shock length, panhard angle, panhard length, bump stops, caster angle, pinion angle, tail shaft length, tail shaft angle, brake line length, drag link angle, drag ling length, ESP wiring length, ESP calibration, sway bar lik length - and probably a few more that i've overlooked.

So there's no such thing as a good cheap lift - theres "cheap and nasty" lifts, or "lifts in progress". and properly done lifts with the associated costs.

If you can't afford "properly"... start with good quality bits and then work towards the full solution. But always keep in mide that half baked will have consequences.
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Last edited by MightyMouse; 28-10-2010 at 10:32 AM.
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Old 28-10-2010
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If your just looking for A bit more lift then the mopar springs are not a bad option, gives you that extra inch or so that the unlimited needs. Might not be the best but it does work.
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  #10  
Old 28-10-2010
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BS.
I couldnt Imagine anything worse than owning and driving a stock rubi with shock and coils sitting in the garage waiting till you save up and wait for the rest of the kit. Or even worse your driving it around stock whilst your trying to turn you saved up $500 into $10000 to buy a complete kit.
I say spend the $500.
I started with a spacer lift and tyres, then went to shocks then I did coils after that went to control arms, after that sye. Then I sold it all off and bought new shocks and coils. Doing it this way is more fun.
Its easy to preach the right way but realisticly when you start building your car you dont have 10 grand to throw down.
Do it on the cheap and you will have a cooler looking rig that will have better clearance than a stock rubi. Only by adding spacers.
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  #11  
Old 28-10-2010
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what is the purpose of the lift?

to clear larger tyres?
improve the offroad abilities?
perving on the chicks at the traffic lights?

I think you need to define the reason, then we can help you choose the appropriate cheap option.
  #12  
Old 28-10-2010
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Who said leave the bits in the garage...... ?

The key is that cheap has negatives..... anyone who goes down this path needs to understand the compromises that they are making and what its going to do to the vehicles capability and driveability. By all means kick off with the dollars you can spend but ffs don't assume that all the other bits are expensive unnecessaries

"its easy to preach the right way"...... and its even easier to let people dive in without understanding what the results will be and spend the money twice ( or more ).

I'm certain Wrangel will form his own decission.... but anyone who gets a "cheap lift" needs to see the complete picture. If he goes down that path and it doesn't tick his boxes the it was his decission not ignorance.
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  #13  
Old 28-10-2010
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Cheap doesnt have negatives.
The negative (cheap) is low quality shocks, Cork coil spacers and stuff like that.
Not spacers instead of coils and shocks.
The question the op asked is
"how to get a lift on the cheap with a Rubi"
And I was responding to the Cheap = crap response.
  #14  
Old 28-10-2010
Wrangel  Wrangel is offline
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Ok
Cheep = $2000
reason = off road abillitys

So what do u guys think I should get?
Or should I save?

Cheers
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