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  #33  
Old 23-02-2018
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for $450 it would have been done and dusted, PWR quoted me just under a grand three months ago. Do you have any sources so I don't have to sell a kidney?
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  #34  
Old 23-02-2018
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as per my earlier post

I picked up radiator with an aluminium alloy core complete with plastic header tanks (same design as OEM) from an ebay store for as cheap as chips about 8 years ago. had no problems with it and about 150k kilometers later

also picked up a same style rad for a Hilux a year ago and has no problems. cost less than $150

got it from auspartsoverstock on ebay

an entirely aluminium alloy radiator is a risk due to difficulty of manufacture, the core tubes have to be individually welded into the header tanks and that is a highly skilled job, so unless you pay big bucks you'll get crap

copper and brass radiators are easier to produce as during manufacture the solder "sweats" into place with the headers and core

alum core and plastic tanks easier still to make as they are sealed by o-ring style seals and these type of radiators allow a little bit of flex
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  #35  
Old 23-02-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajftj View Post
for $450 it would have been done and dusted, PWR quoted me just under a grand three months ago. Do you have any sources so I don't have to sell a kidney?
I got it off a local radiator place.
He ordered it from someone in Sydney.
Unfortunately he has closed , I took my sons copper one to him to fix , but has closed down.
The guy next door said cheap ebay radiators literally killed him.
Most aren't worth fixing and no one wants to pay double the price for a decent one..
Went to another place , it had closed too.
Found one half an hour away.
Left it with him.
He tested it , rang me and said its fine , come and pick it up.
Put it back in and still leaks
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  #36  
Old 23-02-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajftj View Post
Hmm interesting, it's either crap build quality or some electro-chemical thing. I will definitely take your words of warning on board. I have yet to get to the stage where I am being offered either a refund or replacement.

Unfortunately copper rad's out of budget, which is where this all started for me. The aftermarket ally plastic one that was in the vehicle was leaking when I got it so I was put off those too.

A couple of questions, maybe you can help..

1. If you went back to ally-plastic, which brand did you go for?

2. Did you get as far as measuring the voltages to investigate the electrolysis. I get these readings and have no bench mark.

Battery -ve to Radiator body at mounts 0.001V DC engine off or running, with 0.003V AC ripple engine running.
Battery -ve to engine at thermostat housing 0.001VDC off and 0.004V AC running.
The meter's an Automotive Fluke and it does achieve 0V when the leads are shorted or connected to the block ground cable. No additional loads on at the time, just engine. It actually floats at about 36mV DC when grounded at the battery and not connected at the other lead.

I have not yet tried dipping the probe in the coolant as it was at operating temperature tonight, but will check these tomorrow.

Jeez replacing a radiator shouldn't be this hard!
I did the dip the probe in the coolant thing, (FLUKE DMM too)ground the radiator, isolate the radiator with rubber mounts,get a rad cap with an anode, etc etc at the end of the day I think u get what u pay for, No electrolysis in TJs system, just poor build quality. The ally rads look great, but ALL 3 DIED QUICKLY!!!
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  #37  
Old 24-02-2018
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this is what I got, over 8 years back

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HEAVY-DUT...item3398125227

there is another version that is a bit dearer but the cheaper one as above has a thicker core and thus more efficient
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  #38  
Old 25-02-2018
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Well - I managed to negotiate with the e-bay supplier to get an 85% refund and keep the leaking rad, all in all despite the quality of the product being highly suspect they handled the issue well and quickly refunded. At least I can keep on the road while I source a replacement.

Bonza - thanks for the detail and the link, pretty good price too ($156) and I may go that way, just want to get a response from Adrad on a price, expecting somewhere between $290 and $360 - Yet to make that decision, depends a bit on finances this month.

Mick666 - I am very glad you posted, as I would probably have gone the same way as you did, I would have tried a replacement part and then started looking at countermeasures - You saved me that time and frustration - thanks.

But.. I did carry on and try to investigate the possibility of electrolysis, just for learning as much as anything else. After it all cooled down I dipped a copper rod in the top of the rad and measured the voltage to ground. I was surprised to find just under 400mV - after all my near zero reading with the ground checks externally.

I ended up disconnecting both sides of the battery and still had the same reading from the coolant - so my radiator was a chemical generator. As the coolant was fairly new I didn't think it could be contaminated - but then again, although I did flush it's still an old rusty engine.

Just as a comparison I got an aluminium can and filled it with new coolant and dipped a copper tube into the coolant. Slightly higher reading 450mV from my completely isolated cell - interesting. Not sure what it proves, but I know there's no point in trying to do anything with the vehicle - maybe a different brand of coolant..

Given I'm going back to plastic / ally it's not really a point i'm going to dwell on as the core will be isolated - but nevertheless interesting!
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  #39  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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My experience with non mopar radiators in a 4.0L i6 has been one where I will never bother... I tried two copper brass within a 3 month period, the second was a warranty job. Guess what? Within weeks, the second cracked... Cut my losses, with a so called specialised radiator installer, ordered a mopar rad at Joe mechanic and have had it running well for 3 years. I have a 23 year old xj. The first rad, the original lasted 13 years, the second lasted 8 years, and now I am on my third mopar. What is it about other rads? I am convinced that the build quality is sheet, and they are not up to the task of handling the cooling requirements of a heavy duty cast iron engine.

Last edited by eksjay; 3 Weeks Ago at 08:40 PM.
  #40  
Old 1 Week Ago
jew086  jew086 is offline
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Default PWR alloy rad

I have a custom made pwr rad made awhile ago it was like $1600 to get made for my winch truck but still never work as had a big winch, and other coolers in front of it, turning 37” treeps down deep sandy outback creeks makes anything hot!! so I move the radiator to the rear and used a big alloy one that takes twin 16”spal fans and it has worked a treat!!

So I have had the PWR one sitting in the garage in the corner doing nothing. I’d like 750 for it. Can’t find any pics on my phone at the moment but if you check out my Facebook racing page and look at the pics there will be a few there, it’s Garden shed Motorsport - Facebook.

https://www.facebook.com/GSM868/phot...243171/?type=3

Last edited by jew086; 1 Week Ago at 03:22 PM.
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