ESP Disable - Take two

[wranglertj]

Thanks for that report

[tcf]

Finally got around to this. I got the same iluminated toggle switch as CrazyNuts in the first post. The switch has 3 connectors on it and is shown in the pic below. How do I wire it to make it so the light is iluminated when the circuit is cut? Can someone write exactly which wires from the cable I cut go on which connector and whether I need to connect to any other ground, power etc? Im electrically retarded...

Cheers

[Hotdognz]

I just did this mod to my Jeep, thanks for the info was very easy to follow and was all done in about 2 ours, I didn't solder mine, instead I used bullet connectors so I can revert it back with a small bullet connected short wire if needed.

[Beno393]

Originally Posted by Mals-JK

its a dam critical wire, id solder it mate, especially if reverting it back to stock. Solder and Heatshrink, try and make it look as stock as possible in the loom.

Just some food for thought Mal (but more-so aimed at the auto community)

compression fittings i.e. crimps, are much more reliable then solder when the correct crimp and conductor size is used.

Solder corrodes and cracks due to being a dissimmilar metal to copper or aluminum (the conductor and/or switch)

Solder is only made more unreliable with heat (hot tranny tunnel) and vibration (once again, tranny tunnel)

a correctly sized compression fitting will lock and hold, no vibration cracks, no corrosion and no temp problems, as long as its not being plugged and unplugged constantly it will outlast the car.

Im an offshore electrician, My rig is hotter, vibrates much more, is in a much more corrosive place and also in zone 0 and 1 hazardous Explosive) areas much of the time, the only time i plug in my soldering iron is fixing cracked solders on electronic circuit boards!!

we have 600V emergency fire systems, every single conductor in the circuit from the load to the control side is compression fittings. about 100 lives rely on this system to be as reliable as possible! If solder was reliable, your powerlines, and my rig, would be soldered, but instead they are lugged.

BUT ask an auto electrician and they will tell you to solder everything? perhaps it is keeping them employed?

solder is just the cheap factory option fellas Lug it or leave it!

[Hotdognz]

I also prefer crimpped fittings and that why I did it this way, after running a Lotus 7 for the last 4 years with solder used a lot by the last owner I have done nothing but fixe broken solderd connections due to fatigue from the vibrations for the hard suppension these cars run. Never had a crimpped one fail yet.

Beno393 thanks for your insight it reaffirms what's have been told before, good quality crimped fittings are better than solderd fittings.

[Beno393]

no worries, im glad my post didnt come accross as stubborn or rude

also the switch pictured will have the light "lit" when the switch is closed, not open.

meaning the light will be ON, when all electronic aids are ON, and light OFF when you open the circuit. thats assuming the low voltage is enough for the LED to light up.

I would recomend not worrying about the light on the switch, youll have plenty of lights on the dash when you switch it

[CrazyNuts]

I don't have a problem soldering as I do it PROPERLY! and never had an issue, and I've been over some very rough terrain.

This is my method

http://makezine.com/2012/02/28/how-t...asa-standards/

Then I shrink wrap with the glue based wrap for extra strength and a bit of water resistance too.

On another matter, does my mod work on the new Pentestar vehicles as well?