Duel battery.

[Wiz.au]

Originally Posted by CibbyDoc

Hi Wiz

Mate under the floor is a space of about 20mm and some sound proofing topped with a plastic material.

I used my multi tool to cut through it, removed all the material and laid down some 3mm rubber straight onto the now bare metal to absorb vibration when off road to the battery.

In front of my battery now is a new inverter (2000 watt) that charges all my stuff including the Stihl Chainy.

The space under the back seats disappears when you fold them down (it has a system that retracts the seat down to the floor) to create the flat fold so it's of little to no use.

It's plenty strong to hold the battery, mines 40odd kg and I've not had any issues. Directly under that anti vibration goo that's in there is the spare tyre well which is ribbed for strength.

Here's a couple of pics of the completed setup. If a have a heavy load in the back I have marine ply panel, 15mm, that replaces the plastic cargo lid.


Hope this helps mate.

Cibby

Sure does.. Thanks mate!

[BaldyTJ]

That's a dam good set up

[Wiz.au]

Made a start today. Ripping out all the old wiring from the previous owner. If an Auto Electrician did the trailer lights, they should be made to re-do their apprenticeship! And the person who did the rear SB50 Anderson just shouldn't be allowed to work on vehicles at all!

Other than that, the rest of the work wasn't bad.
But this is what I had to pull out:

• Single 6mm2 positive from battery, right across firewall into drivers footwell, into a relay switched from IGN/ACC, then 4mm2 twin down to rear cargo area, to provide an ACC switched Cig Socket in the right side of the cargo area.
• 8 core trailer wire cable from right hand side tail light to 7pin flat trailer connector. (Only need 5!)
• Twin 4mm2 going through right hand tail light to 7pin flat trailer connector, that was only connected to the Earth point behind the right hand tail light, but the +ve wasn't connected to anything! (Think it might have been connected to the switched line at some point before the SB50 was installed straight to the battery?)
• 8mm2 RED from rear Anderson SB50 -ve, to Earth under car, secured with a Self Drilling TekScrew!
• 8mm2 Red from battery, all the way underneath the under car, to rear Anderson SB50 +ve.
• 1mm2 Black/White from Number Plate lights to stripped and soldered 'intercept' to tail light wire on 8 Core cable to trailer plug
• 2.5mm2 with inline blade fuse to front light bar relay. (Going to incorporate this into a new 4-Way 'Maxi' Blade Fuse Box with ONE feed from battery, going to: 25w UHF Radio[7.5A], 220w Light bar [20A], Front Anderson SB50[50A], and IDC25 Dual Battery+Solar unit.[50A])

"The Plan"


Probably shoulda washed the engine bay first, eh? Oh well.... I'll do it when the temp gets above 10DegC!


I'll re-wire the trailer socket properly at a later time. Dual Battery system is today's job.

I think the IDC25 can go here:


How convenient, a 'noice' Earth point right underneath it! I'll bring all the Earths to here. (AUX Batt, IDC 25, 600w Inverter, Solar Panel, & Rear Anderson SB50 outlet)



And the plan is:

• Yellow Housing on rear Tyre Carrier: RED Anderson SB50 for Solar Panel Input to IDC25 controller
• Black Housing on Towbar adjacent 7Pin Trailer socket: Grey Anderson SB50 for general output power, air compressor, Camp LED Lighting, etc.
• Blue Housing on Front Bullbar: Grey Anderson connected to front Starting Battery, through a 50A fuse, for air compressor, Gneral 12V power, & charging/float/maintenance input for main battery from 10w solar panel with Regulator.

I'm going to earth both the Yellow housing Solar input and Black Housing 12v AUX Batt output Anderson SB50's to the towbar with short 'pigtails', and then earth the whole towbar with a heavy cable or copper braid to the 'chassis'. That way I only have to run a 4mm2 twin (Red[12v+]/White[Solar]) into the car. Less wires, less holes, less chance of water ingress during water crossings.

Now, to find a 4-Way Maxi Fuse box, one for the front, and another for the back, to act as a distribution box too.

to be continued......

[CibbyDoc]

Sounds great mate.....watching with anticipation




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[Wiz.au]

DISASTER yesterday. I was pulling out the 8mm2 cable from under the car (the one that went direct from the starting battery, under the car, to an SB50 Anderson on the towabar the PO had installed).

I couldn't quite get to cut some of the cable ties they had used to secure the cable to various places. So I went and got my ramps, and started to reverse the car back to raise the rear of the car up on the ramps so I could get under it safely. Well,... I felt and heard something go 'chunk'. So I stopped and got out, and then saw what had happened with the cable. The 8mm2 cable got caught under the passenger side rear tyre, and had been "pulled" until something gave way. So, roll car forward, move all the loose hanging cables, put the car into 4WD Low Range and tried to reverse it up the ramp. Then realised when things didn't go as I expected...

NO 4WD and no LOW RANGE!

Next thing I know, Engine Check Light (MIL) is on and so is the Traction Control dash light. So I hook the diagnostic scanner....

"0114 - Unable to communicate with 4WD Clutch Pack"

Ahh, SHIT, the 8mm2 cable must have been cable tied to the wiring harness that operates the 4WD Clutch Pack and Low Range activator, and when the cable got pulled from being run over with the tyre, it's pulled on and damaged the transfer case wiring harness somewhere.

When it gets above 10DegC I'll go out with a torch and see if I can tell just how bad it is. I have visions of a broken connector on the side of the transfer case, that will require the transfer case to come out and be split apart to replace.

Ah well, better I find out here in the driveway at home, than out in the bush somewhere after a stick could have pulled that cable and done the same damage. Another reason to run the cable down to the Aux battery controller from INSIDE the car. And now I'm like:

[Wiz.au]

After crawling under the car and removing all the bash plates (It's a Limited with all the full Factory underbody protection plates) then all the normal lightweight covers, I traced the clutch pack wiring, and there were a few broken cable ties on the top, but no damage to the wiring harness. Good to also know that the Fuel Pump, Heater, and Water Warning wiring go up into this harness too, along with the Low Range Actuator, then go along the top of the transmission, out of the way, mostly.

But... NOTHING FOUND. Everything looked OK. And I checked three times.

So it's back to working out just what else I could have done to cause this....

The only other two things I had done was inside the cabin and under the steering wheel. I had pulled out the 3 wires going to the Lightbar switch, as I'm cleaning all that up, and I had removed the "switched" accessory socket wiring that ran down the right side of the car back to the outlet on the sub-woofer. So following that, I checked where the PO or his electrician had got the feed for the rear outlet. You can't really say anything about that, as TBH, it's a big Red & Black power wiring.... While it seems a decent place to get some juice from, it must be permanent power because this thick red wire, grafted into the Control Module harness, fed a relay that was switched from a signal wire further down the loom near the footwell. What a complicated way to do something, and not so great to be pulling power for your power socket in the cargo section off your 4WD Clutch Pack and Low Range TCM!?

Hmm, but that doesn't look right... Oh SHIT, I think I've plugged the cable back into the wrong socket!!... and THAT module must be the 4WD Clutch Pack controller and Low Range TCM?

So I undo the cable ties I used to tidy everything up and relocated the plug I had previously removed to the TOP socket in that module instead of the middle socket.



BING!
OBD errors gone, and 4WD indicators on Dash are now working. All tests OK, Fault Codes cleared, and all looks good again.

PHEW!

So back to our normal programming. Mounting the IDC25 in the back today, as the Anderson PP45 connectors and 6-way fuse box still haven't arrived. So I'm a bit limited in what I can do until they get here. Might start mounting the colour coded Anderson connectors and covers.

[CibbyDoc]

I agree mate....although hard way to find out. I had an old C6 that I was too lazy to run wiring properly on in the old days and had a similar thing happen (though not as bad, not too much electrics in old girl) but I did manage to pull the harness with the 4WD indicator light wire in out after my trailer power cable that I ran under the car got caught on some drift wood at double island point. The result, although not catastrophic like yours, no 4WD indicator light on the dash. No biggy. Not until I got back on the road at least. The rest you can guess. I always run wiring inside now. Unless you can feed it down the chassis rail. Hope its all sorted now mate.


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