what can it do?

[airlock]

Originally Posted by Hanna

The only real "party trick" with QT2 is that when the transfer case is in Full-time 4WD (high range) the centre diff transfers power to the front axle once the rear axle spins faster (i.e. wheelspin). This is operated by a gerotor pump, similar to how the QD diffs work.

It just means that you can drive in high range with all power going to the rear wheels and then have the benefit of the front wheels kicking in once wheelspin occurs at the rear. The only downside to this is driving in the sand as by the time the front kicks in the rear may have already dug in and you're going nowhere. This is not often though and you just need to know when to change to Low range to lock the centre diff. This only really needs to be done in the softest sand, but you can get away with at least 60km/h in Low range anyway, so if you're unsure, just use Low to get through the tough stuff.

I have a 4.7 V8 Limited with QT2 and I'm also a complete novice when it comes to sand driving and I got away with driving all over Fraser Island for a week without a drama. I did have one blonde moment when I left it in Full-time 4WD in a soft section at Orchid Beach servo and got bogged within 10m of the bowser, but after clearing the rear wheels of sand and popping it into Low range with the engine off, I just drove straight out. When I first got there I started off driving everywhere in Low range accept for the main beaches and then I realised that was overkill and pretty much drove everywhere in Full-time 4WD from then on.

You really will be surprised how well they go off-road even in standard trim and they love the sand too!!

thanks a lot, really good information to have as i will be doing a lot of sand driving.

[markredgum]

Agree with Hanna - if you are new to driving your WJ/WG in the sand start in low range. Then find some soft-ish sand and then have a bit of play taking off from a standing start in full-time 4wd. You'll soon get a feel for how rear wheels spin a bit before the front wheels kick in.


The other issue, when stock, the transfer case is a bit lowand will act as a bit of a plough through the larger sand ruts. Trick here is just to keep your momentum up when it starts to drag a little. If you have a 2" + lift the problem goes away - it is I think just that the WJ/WG is a bit lower that most of the other vehicles around.

Other standard tricks are lowering tyre pressures and having a decent shovel.

Have fun

[briteway]

Originally Posted by pmac

Quadradrive is hydraulically operated, where if one wheel spins at a different speed to the other, an actuator pump (gerotor) locks the diff and puts power to the spinning wheel. QD2 does the same, but with use of electronics.

I thought to add another difference between the two; QD2 - when it locks the diffs, they remains locked. Anyone who has QD2 and takes it offroad enough for the diffs to lock will notice that when on flat surface and still in low range, that the lockers are still engaged if trying to u-turn. The only thing I'm not sure about is, at which point do the lockers disengage? One thing is for sure, when switching out of low range and/or back in.

[pmac]

Really? I wouldn't have thought that to be the case, but I haven't done anything serious in my WH to cause them to activate, unless...., I was trying to reverse once after going offroad (for the first and only time so far), and I heard a clunk/clicking sound from the rear. It didn't sound good so I went back to High range and it went away.

[briteway]

Yep, you'll hear the clicking and it sounds like when the axle has broken teeth but it's really the friction of the clutches inside the diff. You'll also notice the wheel hop when turning, which proves the lockers are still engaged, just like the welded diff I had on cars back in the young/old days. I actually prefer that over the QD1 as it's a real 100% lock so on the next obstacle, it's ready. If I want to disengage then I might as well drive in high until needed again.

[fester]

Originally Posted by timbotrog

The party trick is you can fit a front ARB air locker and a rear auto locker.

Don't worry, unless you want to do some serious off road work you don't need quadradrive.

The good thing is the rear auto locker is so cheap too and unlike quadradrive gives guaranteed 100% lock when needed too. In fact I saw a cheap new unused one on this very forum for sale only the other day.