Bogged again!

[airlock]

it hasn't rained up these parts in nearly 6 weeks, yet i still managed to bog the dam thing good and proper. not sure if its me doing things wrong or if i'm using the wrong kit. I'm on AT/S at the moment witch i'm guessing is most of the problem, Yokohama geolanders witch have been a bit poor in mud on more then one occasion already but work really well on road, gravel and sand. i was going through in low range at what i thought was a quick enough pace to keep momentum but still sink to tyres all the way.
apart from more suitable tyres is there any way to make it a bit more successful in the mod? its an 04 wj with qudratrac 2 so not exactly the best to start with.

[Hoobz]

We don't know exactly what sort of mud scenario you are talking about but...

I tend to keep it in high range when playing in mud. Anything lower then high 1st is too slow for the mud you were playing in with open diffs and those tyres probably.

Momentum is key. Takes experience for sure too.

The old saying goes, 'As slow as possible, but as fast as necessary'.

Just watch out for unknown things hidden in the mud. That's when you will get more damage going faster than if you were crawling along.

Plus, with just the Quadratrac-II and just open diffs, it's going to be easy to get stuck with one wheel on each axle spinning doing nothing too. Especially when just crawling along. Go through the mud faster. Keep everything churning.

Maybe drop your tyre pressure down to 15/18psi when playing in mud too. That's what I do.

[fester]

Originally Posted by Hoobz

I tend to keep it in high range when playing in mud. Anything lower then high 1st is too slow for the mud you were playing in with open diffs and those tyres probably.

Momentum is key. Takes experience for sure too.

Just watch out for unknown things hidden in the mud. That's when you will get more damage going faster than if you were crawling along.

Plus, with just the Quadratrac-II and just open diffs, it's going to be easy to get stuck with one wheel on each axle spinning doing nothing too. Especially when just crawling along. Go through the mud faster. Keep everything churning.

That's all well and good but in high range the centre diff is not positively locked, you are relying on the variloc fluid coupling to lock. Low range is good for nearly 60kph and does give you a mechanical positive lock so it should be good for some tyre cleaning. At the end of the day worn all terrains are not good for mud especially when some A/Ts are even less aggressive than others. Combine that with open diffs and maybe it was just meant to be.

You need to think about how often you really do tackle serious mud and whether you can justify the right mods and whether they are worth the spend. If not avoid the mud or just be happy getting stuck once in a while.

[pmac]

You need to keep the wheels spinning so the tyres can disperse any mud to allow the tread to grip. But it's a catch 22 - you don't want to dig yourself deeper either.

I'd say first and foremost, drop tyre pressures to around 20.

[drover]

Yep and yep, low range locks it up and allows you plenty of speed, put the boot in, but don't forget to move the wheel side to side as you go, worked for me on ancient 4x4's no diff locks or other things and still does today. Technique helps. Agree with you about Geolanders but all ATR's are the same really, wouldn't drop the pressure below 22psi otherwise a big pain when you get out.

[Tuffeb]

telling ya now mate

all terrains are useless in the mud!

no all terrain will clear mud and provide decent traction at all

need mud tyres, agresive ones for decent mud

[walldog]

AT's + mud = fail