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Old 20-11-2018
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Originally Posted by HamishW96 View Post
That's cheap, $750 for the rebuild is economical in my eyes... Call around and see what people have to offer with warranty. Will be interesting to see what there is around.

If the cars a good one maybe tough it out and let it grow? My XJ was a real grower tbh. Never a nice car but so much character...

I did a lot of (mostly) maintenance work to my last XJ . I had the time and money to spare to throw at it.

Now I have to work a lot longer and harder to just pay the bills these days. I can't justify spending too much on the Jeep, there just isn't the spare cash. Or the time to play with it. Maybe that's why it's not fun anymore. I didn't used to have to worry about burning time on the XJ when I felt I should be working like I do now.

I'm very tempted to have a go at fixing the pinion bearings myself over Xmas. It's about $80-$100 in parts. Plus I need to buy a torque-meter thingy to make sure I've got the correct preload. The LP D30'd crush bearing doesn't sound like fun to get right either...
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Old 20-11-2018
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You can resuse the crush washer thingo. The lb in torque wrench you need is pricey, I snagged one on Amazon cheap though.
Bearings and pinion bearing are fairly straight forward, cut, split and bang the old ones off and heat the new ones and they slide straight ok if you put the carrier in the freezer to get it frosty

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Old 21-11-2018
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[QUOTE=XJClassic;1642734
I'm very tempted to have a go at fixing the pinion bearings myself over Xmas. It's about $80-$100 in parts. Plus I need to buy a torque-meter thingy to make sure I've got the correct preload. The LP D30'd crush bearing doesn't sound like fun to get right either...[/QUOTE]

there is a cheap way around a dial torque gauge, needed to measure pinion pre-load....electronic luggage/fish scales $5..they measure pull force, same as an inch pound dial gauge..some maths needed to get it right.

If ur re-using the crush sleeve...mark the pinion nut BEFORE dismantle.

When assemble, the marks should be pretty close if things are correct.

a 3/4" drive Torque wrench is usually also needed for diff work, as 1/2" doesnt read high enough for pinion nut torque, but like I said, if you mark before, and max out the 1/2" torque wrench, it should only need a little bit more
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Old 22-11-2018
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there is a cheap way around a dial torque gauge, needed to measure pinion pre-load....electronic luggage/fish scales $5..they measure pull force, same as an inch pound dial gauge..some maths needed to get it right.


The dial torque gauges on eBay vary from $15 adaptors (you stick it between the ratchet and socket I think) to $500 1000lb-ft dial torque wrenches.

How much torque, or resistance, do you need to read for preload - not much, right? I could see maybe $100 on the right tool being worth it, otherwise it's getting to the point where I would get someone else to do it.
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Old 22-11-2018
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Originally Posted by awg View Post

If ur re-using the crush sleeve...mark the pinion nut BEFORE dismantle.
This method whilst valid for removing and replacing the pinion flange to change the seal, is not reliable method of retorquing if you replace the pinion bearings because the new bearings will vary in thickness from the originals due to production tolerances and coming from likely different makers etc.
By doing it this way the nut could be over or under tightened.
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Old 22-11-2018
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This method whilst valid for removing and replacing the pinion flange to change the seal, is not reliable method of retorquing if you replace the pinion bearings because the new bearings will vary in thickness from the originals due to production tolerances and coming from likely different makers etc.
By doing it this way the nut could be over or under tightened.
a couple of things;

* you still need to be monitoring the pinion bearing pre-load with your inch pound dial torque wrench, as you sneak up to the mark..otherwise yes, you could easily overtighten

* quality bearings (supposedly) have low manafacturing deviance from spec

* using a new crush sleeve probably requires a 3/4" drive torque wrench, that is an expensive tool, its possible to overtighten with a new crush sleeve
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Old 23-11-2018
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I've been looking at a whole lot of how-to pinion bearing replacement stuff, and one symptom my diff does not have is any play in the prop shaft to suggest that the pinion bearings are shot.

That is, no side-to-side, no up-down or fore-aft play at the front diff end of the prop shaft at all. None. The only movement is on the shaft where the front section slides into the rear section of the prop shaft (is that called a slip joint?)

Just to confuse things a little more, I degreased the diff again and went for about 20km drive, speeds up to 80km/h. Got home and not even any weeping of oil on the diff.

I'll give it a bit longer, maybe it just takes a while to get leaking at the pinion seal...

If it's the pinion bearings, it looks like I can get a kit for about $100 and the inch-lb gauge for maybe $150-$200. Something like this?



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