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Old 20-11-2018
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robertodonnell  robertodonnell is offline
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After today, I can write my own!

The first link I posted is pretty much spot on. What you do need to be aware of though is that the R/H side shaft is way too long to come out of the diff, so after you knock out the C/V from the diff, you need to wait until you lower the diff to the ground before it exits the housing.

I used a block of wood to knock the C/V's out of the diff. A tap with a small lump hammer and the retaining clips were easily released.

I did knock out the tie rod ends to allow more articulation of the upright, after I knocked out the top ball joints. And I undid the brake hard line retainers from the inner guard so there was less strain on them. Same for the ABS retainers on the back of the hub and the strut.

The removal was surprisingly straight forward. Bushes are now pressed out, and the diff was pressure cleaned before I put the new ones in. I will post pics soon.
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Old 21-11-2018
H2Micr0  H2Micr0 is offline
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Great info.

Will need in the future I am sure.
  #10  
Old 21-11-2018
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Apart from a 20 ton workshop press, I needed nothing more than regular garage tools to do the job. Definitely a job to tackle at home.

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Old 28-11-2018
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Just a quick update.

Diff is back in and all is well. I would have to say I can't hear or feel any appreciable increase in NVH with the super pro bushes, but I can feel a very slight drive train lash when I'm on and off the gas and the convertor is locked or I'm manually locked in first or second. I ecpect this is just typical of a 4wd system, and I could manually rotate the front drive shaft a smidge when I was under it, so I suspect it's just coming from there.

While I'm at it, does anyone want a couple of standard diff mounts? Offers accepted.

Rob

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  #12  
Old 05-12-2018
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I did mine in the car. Was possible but in hindsight probably should have removed it completely for ease of pressing in new bush.

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