Got a late 2005 GC-L WH

[Clarky]

Just posted in the dome light thread but that dented rear door sounds like a good place to start

[Clarky]

Originally Posted by WilliamAR

Also noticed that there are impact witness marks on the inside part of the pivot housing -no idea what to call it- where it hits the turn limit on the lower control arm for turning right, right side has a lot of marks, left not so much(the photo uploaded inverted vertically):

The right hand knuckle will have more wear masks due to doing "U" turns.

Here in Oz we get the wear mark on the left as we drive on the correct side of the road

[Clarky]

If you pull the wire off the engine temp sensor (halfway up the right hand side of the V) the fan should ramp up to full speed and stay there, its a safety feature for when computer can't read the temp, good way of checking the solenoid on the fan is functioning correctly.

[WilliamAR]

small-ish update, got word from the pump shop:
The pump had a couple broken shaft seals, fixed it, now i have to "change oil as it's too dilluted..." not convinced so i'll save that oil.

The injectors are ok, there are two that are a little bit different than the rest but still within spec according to them.

As for the smoke they say there are 2 cylinders that have weak cold compression, 2 and 6, i don't plan on rebuilding the engine(as at this point it would practically be more expensive than the car itself, and i'm fed up with engine rebuild costs and problems on my other vehicles) so that will stay as-is i'll have to live with the clouds of smoke.

Once i get it back first order of business is to see how to unclog the sunroof drains and check the glass seals.

Then i can star dabbling with the power draw/dome lights issue.

the bang on the door is not substantial, i said dent but it's more like a 1cm deep gash, probably self-inflicted against one of those metal corner guards in a parking lot.

For the dome lights i'll have to see if i can check the door switches without taking apart the door trim, would simply tripping the lock with a screwdrive trick the car into thinking the door is open?.
Reading the wiring diagram i see that there's a "door ajar switch sense" only, curiously seems like both front doors conenctors have the sense line for both doors(left door connector has both sense pins), but diagram doesn't show the ajar switch or how it's referenced, i guess they're referenced to grounds and are NO?(based on the bonnet switch if i'm not mistaken -have to buzz that switch to confirm-)

[WilliamAR]

fruggen clogged right side drain... grumble grumble....

¿Left side?, easy, compressed air and a cable puller to unclog, perfection.
right side... passed compressed air, nothing, cable puller, nothing, had to disconnect the drain from the sunroof to be able to stick the nozzle well (as it's impossible on the roof drain itself) and it must have been so clogged that it popped from the floor drain!, aghh

had to undo the trim panels, unclog with prejudice, replug(and used some RTV as well for good measure, that bugger ain't going anywhere now!) and voila, both drains work!.



luckily i watched some YT videos about the clogged roof on a WJ(which seems to be the exact same) or i'd have been quite lost

[WilliamAR]

Another update after a day of putting stuff in after waiting months for them to arrive:

1) Installed new oil pressure sensor

2) changed oil filter oring, it was leaking

3) Changed exhaust backpressure sensor, this was preventive as i've read this sensor can lead to false boost errors
4a) After this we started the car and revved it up to ~3k rpm to check for leaks but as soon as i lifted my foot there was a very loud "papapa" like an open blow-off valve from a turbo and the engine stopped, no codes stored and engine started back up again ok. Took it for a drive around the corner and whenever i each 2k rpm and lift my foot i again heard the very distinct sound but no turn off
Checked one of the hoses for craks and it's not cracked, the one from the intercooler to the intake flap, the other one is near impossible to check it's buried below the hard AC lines, battery and resonator, you can't even get a finger in

5) Changed the left front ABS sensor, as it failed before, but after clearing codes and cleaning the connector it never failed again, what it was doing is when i reach 60kh car starts to have a severe shudder, no lights are shown(i would expect ABS or TC light on the dash, but nothing) and no codes are stored. Haven't driven after changing it.

6) Since i got the mopar generic transmission oil dipstick 9336 i went to measure how much is there: it measure 80mm COLD, this can't be right, according to tsb_wh_2101906 cold(25°) the level should be 40mm. the other day after a regular drive with transmission still hot(did not have scantool at hand to check temp) it measure 85mm.

7) when slowly moving the car with the wheel turned all the way left or right, there's a distinct clunking as if something was seizing and releasing, ¿could this be the famed front diff bushing?

the throttle body red light is on all the time, it comes on some seconds after starting with a DING sound, NO codes stored. After driving for a while normally P0046 is stored (as well as a host of O2 and EGR errors),NO codes for swirl motor

9) One of the injectors seems to be leaking on the backside, i suspect the return line oring might be pinched, ¿to remove it do i just pull on the plastic collar?, i also need to get one of those special open 18mm injector socket to check if it's not leaking from there as i can't get a normal wrench on the nut

To do: Connect the turbo leak tester to check for leaks

¿any ideas in general from all this?

[alexbrown64]

Hi,

4a) After this we started the car and revved it up to ~3k rpm to check for leaks but as soon as i lifted my foot there was a very loud "papapa" like an open blow-off valve from a turbo and the engine stopped, no codes stored and engine started back up again ok.

Could of blown the EGR elbow behind the turbo.
Run your hand all around behind there while someone revs the car. It makes this noise if it’s cracked. Our went when I revved the car up once.

5) Changed the left front ABS sensor, as it failed before, but after clearing codes and cleaning the connector it never failed again, BUT when i reach 60kh car starts to have a severe shudder, no lights are shown(i would expect ABS or TC light on the dash, but nothing) and no codes are stored. Haven't driven after changing it.

Use JScan and set the abs sensors up so you can see their rpm and speed while you drive. I bet one is still intermittently playing up. Or....it’s your turbo actuator, which will do this too, and can also throw the 46 code and thunder bolt I think.

7) when slowly moving the car with the wheel turned all the way left or right, there's a distinct clunking as if something was seizing and releasing, ¿could this be the famed front diff bushing?

Usually clunks in a straight line as the torque twists the diff.
Can be abs sensor, as if one is faulty, it can lock the opposite one trying to correct a skid. We had this while reversing and turning out the drive way. Again, found the fault in JScan with live ABS data.

the throttle body red light is on all the time, it comes on some seconds after starting with a DING sound, NO codes stored. After driving for a while normally P0046 is stored

Can be turbo actuator which also explains the jerking.
Try a cheap G001 Chinese actuator., or a known good used one.
Also, make sure you have the swirl resistor mod.

Cheers,