Grand Willys Project

[billygoat]

A mud flap on the rear would give the illusion of the front being higher

[CJ6np435]

looks better wider, I think shorter too.....

[Gojeep]

Originally Posted by bodgie

The guards help a lot and they definitely needed the extra length. I'm thinking the leading edge of the guard needs to be a little bit shorter, to me it doesn't look quite right.

Jason

Might look different once the step is added to it and the skirts.

[Gojeep]

I wanted to get a better idea of close to final ride height. The centre coil is the stock Grand Cherokee donor one and had the rear sitting up 50mm-2" higher than stock due to so much less weight. On the right is a new Grand Cherokee SRT Eibach lowering coil that had it sitting 25mm-1" lower than stock. The only other spring I had on hand on the left was a stock rear coil spring from my KK Cherokee. Happened to have the same top and bottom coil size as the Grand Cherokee. When I fitted those it brought the back down to the stock donor height!


Just have the guard balanced on a block but gives a better idea of how the guard shape sits over the tyre.


This still leaves just under 25mm-1" of rake which is how I usually set my vehicles up. That way with the offroad camper trailer hitched and load it will sit level.

[Gojeep]

Video update.

https://youtu.be/M_8LNajyc-I

[Gojeep]

Been working out more of the dents in the radius. Found a modified tow ball and a steam pipe elbow made good dollies for the corners.


Also needed to address all the fatigue cracks where the skirts mount. Might be able to make out the line for the material I'm going to cut away.


The area above the skirts was made longer to suit my deeper than stock bed sides. Also removed some of the crown where it meets the skirts to make it flow better.


What I also did was run the flange down into the cut away as the stock one on the right was way too thin there causing a stress riser and fatigue.


I looked into making the skirt and step in one piece. Problem was it actually reduced the amount of material right at the fold where the guard meets it. Don't like the shape either.


Tried a narrower version but still not nice, so will make them more like the stock ones.


Made the skirt up first as a separate piece.


I have the depth matching the bottom of the cab.


The stock ones had a curve like the back of the cab. Raided the kitchen to find a matching radius. 😃


With the curves to the leading and trailing edges like stock, it looks much better.


Will also add the bead rolls that the stock ones had. I don't like seeing the 'hole' in the corner under the cab where the sill curves up to meet the floor. This is normally not seen but is now because of my wider cab.


Thinking I will also add a brace at the front to act as a support, but also cover that hole in the corner. Frames the step better too.

[Gojeep]

Making the steps. Doing both sides at once as quicker and it also makes sure I don't make two of the same side. Think we all have done that before! Also showing how much I have pre-stretched the right one where the beads will be formed.


Looks like I guessed well as very flat straight off the bead roller before any other work has commenced. Left one ready to go next.


I had these bead dies made for me the last time I was in the USA by Hoosier Profiles. I designed them to be offset so that the thin side would match the stock bead spacing. Last bead is only on the first pass.


I dressed the ends by rounding them using some notched water pipe. Also used the bolster and chaser down the sides of the beads.


Came out dead flat in every direction.


I had decided on doing the curved sections separately by folding some channel and then shrinking the flanges to match the curve.


Tacked in place ready for tig welding.


I used a softer radius for the front top edge and made the other bends the same as normal for that thickness of sheet. The shallow curved side is to match the crown of the guard.


Got it clamped into position to check fitment.


All bolted in. I also added support straps from the bottom of the skirts back to the chassis which greatly removed the flex the guard had. Stock they ran a rod from the bottom of the guard back to the chassis as well, but most times they are missing which leads to all the fatigue cracks.


The step also stops racking and will minimise the stone chipping on the front face of the guard. Rear skirts next.