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Old 10-01-2019
awg  awg is offline
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so I just found out a bad thing if you own a pre-update

the heater/aircon fan circuit pulls full current thru the ignition switch, wiring, fan switch etc..NO relay/s

lots of ways for things to self-immolate, including the ignition switch

I found a corroded connector at the resistor block had fried the wiring & connector..now fixed..but the original design flaw persists (corrected on post-update, used relay and switched -ve)

There is one obvious solution, which I will probably implement

Make a 4 relay pack ($17.95 on Ebay), mount adjacent to fan, run wires thru firewall

one of my '96 has a aftermarket ignition system fitted, old one must have burned out, and taken some wiring with it,
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Last edited by awg; 10-01-2019 at 06:39 PM.
  #9  
Old 10-01-2019
oldon  oldon is offline
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When you put the relays in, show us how you went about it. It's likely not only me who didn't know about that wiring disaster waiting to happen. Bean counters strike again.
  #10  
Old 11-01-2019
awg  awg is offline
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here is the circuit diagram,

had to rethink my plan, relays need to intersect the wires to resistor pack, marked in red, to retain 4 speeds, therefore 4 relays in cabin, adjacent to resistor block.

Should be out of the way, if packaged well, needs 12V in cabin, probably run a fused wire thru the firewall.

all ideas welcome, especially before fitting

dont want to introduce new Automotive Electrical 101 mistakes

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'96 Sport 335k (got smashed, farmtruck)
  #11  
Old 11-01-2019
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i must be missing somthing.
i would be using 1 relay to supply power to the blower switch.
Bypasses the ignition switch to supply the blower switch @C236.
if it shits itself so what its not a show stopper, put a smaller fuse in if yr that worried.
usually, the resistor packs shit themselves not so much the blower switch.
good luck with it.
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awg
  #12  
Old 12-01-2019
awg  awg is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rainman View Post
i must be missing somthing.
i would be using 1 relay to supply power to the blower switch.
Bypasses the ignition switch to supply the blower switch @C236.
if it shits itself so what its not a show stopper, put a smaller fuse in if yr that worried.
usually, the resistor packs shit themselves not so much the blower switch.
good luck with it.

I think your idea has great merit, and might just do that, as the ignition switch IS the name of the game, I can always swap a blower switch out

I had a close look at a couple of resistor packs, I am suspicious that people find them dead, but they are still ok.

there is a $3 thermo fuse in them, and wire coils for resistance
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'96 Sport 335k (got smashed, farmtruck)
  #13  
Old 09-03-2019
awg  awg is offline
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2" suspension lift, shocks, adjustable trackbar etc swapped over from my smashed black one to my new white one, you get to do the job twice when its a swap..fkn yay

new swaybar links & bushes

we drove them both up to my rural block and the black one is now up there for good, unreg, still goes well

while I was doing my swaybars, I noticed that there was no fluid of any sort leaking on the underside, after my extensive leak repair & cleaning

I was also thinking a swaybar disconnect would be a complete waste of money for me, as I very rarely venture where it would be required, and I found that if you carry tools, impact wrench & blanket, (all of which I do when off-roading), you can drop or install the entire thing in 5minutes, without raising the vehicle or removing any other item
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'96 Limited 263k (unreg spare)
'96 Sport 335k (got smashed, farmtruck)
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  #14  
Old 20-03-2019
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You could use relays for the blower fan if you wish, you'll need a way to vary the power to the fan motor but this can be achieved quite easily and cheaply with some simple dc-dc buck converters, one for each speed except high....
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