2007 2.8crd kj misfiring on cylinders 2&3

[glend]

I'm not sure where TJ is getting his information from but that is counter to everything I know about diesels. White smoke is almost always due to a coolant leak into combustion and that would indicate a head gasket problem. Black smoke is overfueling and soot heavy. Let the professionals sort it out.

[Crispy]

Originally Posted by glend

I'm not sure where TJ is getting his information from but that is counter to everything I know about diesels. White smoke is almost always due to a coolant leak into combustion and that would indicate a head gasket problem. Black smoke is overfueling and soot heavy. Let the professionals sort it out.

Very soot heavy Glen. Going to have to check that timing aren't I? Just got me stuffed. The bloke that rebuilds them said I'd be mad. But I suppose it needs checking anyway.
Pull the serpentine belt and get the timing cover off I suppose.

[lifted TJ]

Im a diesel mechanic just so were clear on that ill let glend sort u out...

[senatorjohn]

Agree completely with lifted TJ on the white and black smoke, grey can be a little less positive sign but oil burning can cause it.
Regards
John - Mechanic before we designated between diesel and petrol doctors.

Originally Posted by lifted TJ

White smoke is unburnt diesel/ cold combustion. Black smoke is half burnt diesel. Grey smoke tends to be timing. Can u put a scanner on it and check sensors etc

[glend]

It would take all of 15 mintues to check the timing, provided he knows how to do it.

Basically it goes like this:

1. Rotate the engine clockwise by hand (socket on the crank pulley front bottom) until it reaches 90 degress after top dead centre (ATDC) on cylinder #1, you will know this is the correct position by the lining up of the flywheel hole with the hole in the engine adaptor plate (above the oil filter at the rear of the engine. You can use the long end of a hex key to reach into the hole to find the flywheel hole. You want the hex key to sit level (hole to hole) and not be higher or lower on either end).

2. Remove the locking hole hex bolts for the intake cam and exahust cam on either side of the cam cover. It's a small flat (hex key socket) head that is screwed into the front part of the cam cover on either side.

3. If the engine is at 90 degrees after top dead centre (90ADTC)on cylinder #1 then the locking hole in the cover should line up with the locking hole in each of the cams. A flexible shaft inspection camera is the easy way to check the hole alignment. You can lock the cams in place by inserting a bolt with the same thread size as the cover bolt you removed - the cam hole is threaded to receive the locking bolt (this is the equivalent of the VM cam locking bolt tools that you don't have).

If the cam holes do not line up, make sure that the engine is actually at 90 degrees ATDC on cylinder #1, you may have to rotate the engine it again to get it to that point.

4. If all three locking holes line up at 90 degrees ATDC on Cylinder #1 then the engine is in time (in terms of the cylinders and valves).

It is still possible that the injector pump is out of time, but you would need to pull the timing belt cover off to check the witness marks on the injector pulley line up with the block mark.

5. If you can't get the locking holes to line up then the engine is out of time and the timing belt is the probable cause.

You can read more about it here:

http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...ng+belt+change

This guide put together by Sir Sam on LOST contains photos:

http://colorado4wheel.com/content/KJ_TB.html

You can save alot of time by doing the fan shroud mod and not have to remove all that stuff at the front to get to the timing belt cover. Just search for the Fan Shroud mod on LOST or here. It involves cutting the top of the fan shroud so that it lifts out and allows access to the belt cover area. It is reinstalled using small straps or cable ties.

I hope that helps.