Quote:
Originally Posted by rainman
The resistance
should be less than 1000 ohms with the engine at its
correct operating temperature. Refer to the Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Manifold Air Temperature Sen-
sor resistance chart. Replace the sensor if it is not
within the range of resistance specified in the chart.
@~1000 ohms resistance in the temp sender the PCM goes into closed loop while idling & cruising.
So somewhere between 85 & 90*C (depending on the precise properties of the individual coolant temp sensor)the PCM registers "normal operating temperature" and closed loop is used if required.
195 OEM equivalent thermostats are listed and for sale in many different places try rock auto in the states.
it is all about the coolant temperature WRT closed/open loop, thermostat opening is a secondary albeit important consideration.
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Sheeeesh .... all that and you didnt comment on the fact that the computer will throw a code in regard to temps being too cold and it appears to register -6' as the closed loop setting.
The first bit was interesting but its just the testing procedure for the temp sensor .... at 90' its actually 860-970 ohms or it could be 7370-8750 ohms at 30' .... if you preferred.
Second bit was a bit more on track ... Was it a presumption or a quote ... the section and page reference would be handy.
The third bit .... well hey, thermostats can even be bought at parts shops out here in the boonies without worrying about import duties.
As we probably shouldnt tie up the thread anymore ... hows about you respond to this original question ....
Since you lean towards that concept as well ... can you confirm the actual temperature stated is when the system changes from open loop to closed loop ... or are you only going by what you read on somebodies website ???
and as I previously asked, give me your thoughts on the computer code:
P0125 - Closed Loop Temp Not Reached ... Engine does not reach 20°F ( -6'C ) within 5 minutes with a vehicle speed signal.
In a PM ......