Help with is it time for a new alternator

[Majiklister]

Hi Guys, I am after more advice. Before I had the WCM and steering lock problems I noticed on my scan gauge II that my voltage when idling and revving with a load and idling and revving with no loads always stayed around 14.5 to 14.6 volts but weeks before the ecu, wcm, steering lock troubles the voltage dropped to 13.5 to 14.1 volts with and without loads revving or idling.
Even after the ecu, wcm, and steering lock where repaired I am still getting this low voltage.
Could I assume the alternator is on its way out.

Cheers

[Bobs_Dog]

Hi,
Some other things you could also check might include:
Is the alternator belt tight enough and not slipping?
Check for any loose/bad/dirty electrical connections that may have some resistance and causing a slight voltage drop.
How old is the battery? Measure its voltage before starting up for the day to see if it’s low.
Ask an auto electrician if he could do a load test on it.
Spray some WD40 into the alternator in case the brushes are worn or sticking in their housings and the springs don’t have enough tension to push them onto the commutator properly.
Hope you get it sorted

[alexbrown64]

13.5-14.5v is within range of a charging alternator.

You will probably know if your alternator is going out. Have a look at it and if its covered in oil, then its probably going to crap out at some stage. They did start making a splash shield for them.

When ours started going out, i noticed the alt light flashing intermittently. Usually idling at traffic lights. Then it started coming on more often until finally it crapped out.

I got a genuine Valeo alternator from RockAuto which is what they came with OEM from factory. You can see how i changed it out and what part number i used etc. in my 2005 Daughter thread.

Cheers,

[Majiklister]

Thanks guys for the info.
The alternator voltage output has now dropped to 13.3V to 14.0V and battery volts are low 11.9 to 12V when battery checked next morning.
Sparesbox had the alternator that you used Alexbrown64 for $520.00 delivered so I am just going to replace and see how it goes, I assume after I done a battery load test which passed that it has to be the alternator (brushes, regulator, or pulley not sure) I will replace alternator.
And remove the resonator and replace with a silicon pipe, new idler pulleys, belt tensioner, and belt while I am at it.
Then back to finding engine oil leak.
Cheers

[alexbrown64]

Sounds like a plan. Rockauto price including delivery is about the same.
I gave the daughters car a thorough degrease underneath. I think a lot of her oil was coming from the hose into the turbo. Was very worn and oily around there. We did the elephant hose mod and Mann catch can. I also added a can of the new style seal stop leak with polymers.

It’s not perfect, and every now and then it can do with a wipe, but the drips have practically stopped. Just one here and there, and for me it’s acceptable for an old car.

Daughters crd is still going great with the mods you are about to do. Resonator delete, new pulleys etc. I’ve got lots of nice pics up on the thread I have about doing the daughters car.

Alternator is easy too. Once you just take your time and remove airbox, turbo hoses etc and give yourself the space, then it sort of wriggles out easily.

Chirps write-up was great...
https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/re...-step.3864505/

Good luck,

Cheers,