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  #106  
Old 28-04-2006
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Read the rules and specs, talk to Cheezy (OzRock) and Sam Overton (WE Rock Aus), and make sure you have all the required bracing etc... it is all in the rules.

By the way, your buggy is too small.

S.
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  #107  
Old 28-04-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FireTruck

By the way, your buggy is too small.

S.
Yeah no matter how much I held my breath, I couldn't squeeze into it
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  #108  
Old 28-04-2006
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use more lube.
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  #109  
Old 30-04-2006
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Hey All

Awesome topic Maddog.

Last year when we built our buggy we set out to make the ultimate competition single seat buggy. What that is who knows???. We broke away from traditional designs and went with what we thought was best. How we came to this conclusion was based on what we had seen and experienced at all the Ozy events plus talking to our friends who compete in the US and learning from their experiences.

For starters budget will be your biggest factor in building any buggy. Do your budget and then expect to double it. I can assure you building a buggy is not cheap if you want to do it right and particularly if you want to be in the winning circles. Our buggy was not cheap however we feel that we spent our money in the right areas which will pay in the long run.

Little things add up quickly simple things like quality bolts/nuts, rodends, reliable electricals, diff & chassis brakets (especially if lazer cut), welding & cutting consumables, reserviors, paint, brake lines, Hydraulic line etc

Things we learnt:

- Expect to pay for quality
- Dana 60s & CTMs are the bomb, if you can afford it get them !!!
- Centre of gravity & roll centre is everything,
- 15k 350 chevs are great but not necessary,
- You will never regret buying an Atlas, they are basically a must especially if no rear-steer,
- 20in rims are actually worth it especially when combined with Stauns, the low profile tyres stops the tyres from creeping or rolling under the rim,
- A quality auto is paramount and a big catch can will stop fires!!,
- Front mounts climb and drop off easier than rear mounts,
- Rear steer costs and is not essential but adds another dynamic to your rig,
- Hyrdo pully size does matter,
- Tyres size & brand does matter so check out what everyone is running,
- Expect to be suprised at the forces involved in rockcrawling especially when it comes time to consider what to make your control arms and chassis out of, yes chromoly arms can bend!!!
- Lead in your tyres does make a difference but you better have a dam strong driveline to handle it,
- If you are going to compete if you dont have a good spotter it doesnt matter how good your buggy is.

These are my thoughts and I am happy to eloborate if you want.

For those interested an ABT buggy chassis will range from $4500-$8500. $8,500 will give you a complete chassis with lazer cut brakets, Allum firewall, mounts ie steering & driveline, lexen panels, paint and diff brakets etc

Anyway Maddog no matter which way you go you are gonna luv getting out there and having a go!!!

Cheers Sean
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Last edited by McZook; 30-04-2006 at 11:06 PM.
  #110  
Old 30-04-2006
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Build reliability and test it plenty. Everything can ALWAYS be improved upon!
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  #111  
Old 07-05-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maddog
Not sure if this belongs in the febrication section or the rock crawling section, but I guess here's the most appropriate place.

If you were building the ultimate rock crawler, what parts would you use and how would you build it? Here are some thoughts.

Chassis. Obviously it's going to be a single tube framed unit. Would you:

- Design something from scratch and build it yourself
- Design something from scratch and have someone build it for you
- Buy an existing set of design plans and build it yourself
- Buy a pre-made chassis that someone else has off-the-shelf
- Buy a pre-made chassis with some modifications

Wheelbase? Although you might not have much option if you buy something off the shelf.

- 100"
- 105"
- 110"
- 112"
- 116"

Engine. Seems everyone likes the big numbers.

- 2.0L naturally aspirated
- 2.0L turbo
- 5.0L Commodore motor
- 5.7L GenIII commodore motor

What about front mount, rear mount or mid mount? I think you'd have a hard time mid mounting the V8 engine options though.

Diffs. Do you go with ones that are cheap and easy to find parts for, or do you build something that's more expensive and bullet proof.

- Unimog diffs
- D60's/Rock crushers
- GQ/GU diffs

Suspension. There's pretty much only two real options you'd consider here

- Air shocks
- Coil overs

But in terms of your conrol arm linkages, there are also a couple of options

- 4 link front and rear
- 4 link rear 3 link front

I'd say an auto gearbox would be pretty much standard in any rock crawler, whichever auto matched the engine used. But what about transfer case?

- Atlas II
- Dana 300
- Dana 20
- Hilux t/case
- GQ/GU t/case

Wheels and tyres? There's infinite options here, I'll only list the ones I'd consider

- 15 or 17" wheels?
- 38, 40 or 42" tyres. Either TSL/SX or IROK

Things like hydraulic cutting brakes are pretty much standard, front and rear mounted winches hooked up to the diffs.

What's everyone's thoughts? I've got a rough idea of what I'd like to do, but there are so many options.
Don't take my word for it as I would not know, but I think you need to review the question and give it some scope first. I think if you scope out first what you want to achieve, it will be easier to arrive at "your" personal ultimate. And really, I reckon that is all that matters in the long run.

Don't mean to be a wanking, philosoph but really, I don't think we live in a cosmos where anything can really be ultimate do we?
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