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  #127  
Old 03-08-2016
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Checked the rear drive line angle. Diff sitting 2* lower than shaft, which i think is in the ball park. Then i took the drive shaft off... the back uni is completely seized. The two cups that bolt on the diff are OK, but the two in the shaft are solid. I took her for a drive and all the noise in the back was gone... it was a quiet as a mouse, so i believe i have found the problem there. Now, the front seems noisy, with roughly the same sounds that were coming from the rear. I bet the fronts are shot as well.
Anyway, i have parked the old girl up for now and will gather parts to get it running smoothly for inspection day....

Cheers,
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  #128  
Old 03-08-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billnick View Post
Ben Hur comes to mind.
As in bigger than Ben Hur... and i think more expensive as well...

Cheers,
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  #129  
Old 03-08-2016
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Congratulations Alex well done mate
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  #130  
Old 03-08-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexbrown64 View Post
Drove the old girl up to the engineers this morning. He checked it all out, run a radar gun on me, did a sound check, lots of pics..etc.. he passed everything except the exhaust. Ages back i stuck one of those mufflers with the bypass flap in it. At 3000 rpm it was too loud. Its booked in tomorrow for a new SS muffler, then he needs to run another check and all should be thumbs up!!

I did run into a few problems though. Drive line vibes are terrible since i changed the suspension up. Under load it sounds like i have a noisy set of mud tyres on, but coasting it all goes quiet. I may take the rear diff off tomorrow and drive up to the engineer on front wheel drive to pin point the problem. Might need the angle re-setting with wedges, and/or new uni's. The front has a little bit of vibe as well so i need to look at both end.

When i was driving home from the engineers, i hit the freeway and got up to speed and smoke started billowing out everywhere. Pulled over and the underneath of the Jeep was covered in oil...the smoke was from the oil hitting the exhaust. I had only just topped up the tranny oil and added a bit too much... i believe it was coming out the AW4 vent and going everywhere. I could not pin point where it was coming from and wasn't even sure if it was Dexron 3 or motor oil. I made the kids smell both dipsticks and the leaking oil and they couldn't decide either. Anyway, i dropped the auto drain bolt and tried to drain a half liter. Could not get the drain bolt back in properly as it was stripped. It was getting dark and my XJ was parked so that my GC was stuck behind it. My boy was waiting to go to BMX.. far out man... i jumped into action... drained all the oil out, run in the shed and grabbed my 10 x 1.5 tap and tapped the sump. Grabbed a new 10mm bolt and some locktite. Got it in nice and tight and refilled the tranny oil minus 500ml. Got the old girl running and out the way and got the boy off to BMX in time.

So the plan in the morning is get the new muffler fitted, drop the rear drive shaft (i use a front double cardan on my rear with a SYE), and take the run up to the engineers to get signed off while my 48 hour movement permit is still valid. I can check the vibes and the smoke while on the road. Whew.........

Has anyone changed all the unis and stuff on the double cardan shafts. Ie, price, part numbers, degree of difficulty, Mine is a 1995.

Cheers,
Read this while MacGyver theme music playing in the background. Nice save
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  #131  
Old 03-08-2016
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Good work, Alex. Jeep, is strong in you. 😁

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  #132  
Old 05-08-2016
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Replaced the uni joint at the back of the rear drive shaft. It was bone dry, seized and had wear grooves in it. I will re-fit it tomorrow. I took the front drive shaft off, as the front was making the same noise as the back (under load) but it seems OK. I will leave it off and take it for a spin to see if the front goes quiet as it has no shaft, and the rear goes quiet because i have fixed the uni.

Anyway, as she has passed engineering, i bit the bullet and ordered some parts.
Most important is the drive line. I am not sure if in the XJ's 340,000K's the axle uni's or wheel bearings have ever been done. Anyway, there is some vibe and humming in there somewhere, so i have ordered:
2 x Timken wheel hubs.
4 x Moog super uni joints and center ball kits for the 2 double cardan drive shafts.
1 x transmission mount.

Next up was some new wheels. Some Pro Comp 15" D's with chrome centre caps are on the way. I have done a lot of measuring, looked at pics, etc.. and also based my decision on my previous rims.... which got me the defect notice in the first place, as my tyres where sticking out past the Bushwackers.. and have gone with a 4.50 backspace "0" offset.

Cheers,
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  #133  
Old 08-08-2016
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Thursday night i ordered two Timken hubs and two axle uni's from RockAuto so i could sort the drive line out.
They arrived at lunch today (Monday). You wont even get Auspost Express that fast.

It took 4 hours to swap everything out. The old uni's and hubs felt OK, but there is a vibe/noise in there somewhere, so i am eliminating all the possibilities. The uni's weren't dry, but felt a little stiff compared to the new ones.

One thing i wasn't impressed with was that they sent a uni that had been previously opened. The uni didn't have the wax paper wrapping and had surface rust. The packet of clips had been opened and one was missing, so i had to use one of the old ones. I wish they would check this stuff before sending them over to the other side of the planet.

I watched a bunch of video's on how to replace the axle uni's and hubs, but none mentioned that its best to drain the diff first. I had the front of the beast jacked up and did both wheels at the same time. When i pulled the axles, i stuck rags in the end to protect them. When i was ready to reinstall, the tubes had filled with oil and even with the axles replaced, i still had oil oozing out for ages. Lost about 200ml and made a bit of a mess.
Besides that, it all went well and feels smooth.

I have replaced the two uni's in the drive shafts, but will replace the double cardan uni's and center balls at a later date when the parts arrive from Summit Racing.

Cheers,
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