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Old 06-10-2018
roan  roan is offline
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Default Buying advice appreciated for WH

Hi,

I am thinking of buying a WH 2006-2008 CRD.
Now I read all kind of stories about reliability etc but as it is a Benz engine / transmission i would expect that they are reliable.
But what is considered high mileage for this cars? I see cars within my price range ( Max 15k) with around 170k on it which too my option is not much for diesel but when reading all forums and review I am started to doubt a bit of that is not the mileage when the trouble might start.

Any help would be appreciated about high mileage, checks I can do to ensure that I buy a good car..

Thank you

Roan
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Old 08-10-2018
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I clicked over 260000 today.

Injectors start to fail after the 200,000 mark.
Mine were at 240,000 when they showed trouble.
Symptom's at the beginning were stalling at idle when you turned the steering at full lock and a stutter in the idle every 30 seconds or so when sitting in traffic. Eventually that stutter evolved into a random stall at idle.

Replaced starter and alternator some time in the last year (I think) and my aircon has given up for the first time this year (it's 12 years old).

Prop shaft CV needs to be checked regularly as the rubber boot can fail letting the grease out, keep driving it like that and it will fail at the worst possible time.

Other then that you will replace glow plugs and the glow plug module a few times along the way.

Things I haven't experienced yet but can happen is the swirl motor failure, oil cooler failure, turbo or actuator failure, and transmission conductor plate/solenoid failure.
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Old 08-10-2018
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Hi Clarky,

Thank you for your extensive explanation.
What I understand is that replacing the injectors is a costly exercise, is that correct?

Thanks

Roan
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Old 09-10-2018
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Yes it can be, in Oz they sell between $450 to $500 per injector P/N A6420701987

ebay has reco ones for about $200 each

https://www.dencodiesel.com/products...-benz-chrysler
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Old 09-10-2018
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My 2006 WH CRD has registered 352xxx ks. Engine and trans aren still strong. The only real problem is that the starter motor fails to engage into the flexplate 3 out of 10 times making it unable to start the engine. The solution is turn the crank shaft manually a few degrees then the car will start just fine. But guess this is not a common problem among the WH CRD. Besides, service 4wd system messsage stays on dash. The rest is wear and tear of parts as it happens to any other cars.

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Old 11-10-2018
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I bought my WH CRD about 4 years ago for $16k, and it had 128,000km. I would say keep looking or negotiate harder, as while I thought mine was a good deal, it wasn't much lower than the other cars I was looking at. Mine only just clicked over 160,000km, so it's not quite at injector stage yet.

Front prop shaft CV and glow plugs/module are definitely needed. Only buy Bosch glow plugs!!! As well, the intake snorkel I swapped out for a purpose made silicone one from a Russian vendor. This gets rid of the oil leak at the PCV inlet point, and makes the seal to the turbo far more reliable. Ignition switch failures are common, and I purchased a replacement from Rockauto in the USA. Thankfully being an American car, parts are cheap and plentiful stateside.

If you tow anything serious or do any 4wding, budget for better springs and shocks. I was dead against it but after my first tow of a ~ 1600 kilo van, I was mortified at how doughy the suspension was. I went with King springs and Bilstein shocks all round which gave me about 30mm lift on rear and 50mm on front. Now the Jeep sits level instead of having a rake like a drag car (see my pic with the new wheels in a post I did today).

My Jeep had the swirl motor replaced before I got it, and that was a big sell for me as it's a couple of grand to have it done and the intake de-coked. Ask the seller if it's been done, and google the hell out of it so you know what I am banging on about.

Other than that, I have needed very little bar front end ball joints and bushings. I hated the bake pedal and accelerator pedal positioning so I relocated them to my liking, and fitted a BMW brake pedal pad - the Jeep one wears badly on the lower right side and your foot will slip off it if you aren't real vigilant, particularly if you are tall.

If you are competent with a scan tool, get a bluedriver or the AppcarDiagFCA software - you are going to need it to see what issues the Jeep has. Also, check it engages low range using the correct procedure. This can be easily dealt with using the above scan tools, but may give you some negotiating clout if it won't engage. Mine didn't and I surprised the hell out of the seller as he had never engaged low!

One more thing - if you are real keen on 4wding, see if you can get a Quadra Drive model over a Quadra Track - you get locking diffs which in my opinion is better than the ECU using individual braking to lock wheels that slip.

If I remember anything else I will post again.

Cheers,

Rob.
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Old 14-10-2018
Brit30-06  Brit30-06 is offline
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Good point by Robert.
Do not presume like I did that all WH CRD have quadra drive. My 2008 has quadra trac and I was disappointed when I found out.
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