Quote:
Originally Posted by DV8Drew
Not sure about the 3.8 petrol but with the CRD you want to do the opposite. I run 2.5 in the front and 2 inch in the back to offset the extra weight and thats with a steel bar and accessory up front.
In regard to correcting the geometry, raising 2 inches will affect the caster angle and create a harsher ride. You want your caster angle to be between 4.5 & 5° preferably. If you have the cash I would highly recommend upper or lower adjustable arms. You diff will also move sideways with a 2 inch lift so once again I would recommend the adjustable track bar.
Total agree with the below comment regarding the sway bar discos and brake line extension brackets. I forgot to include this in my original comments.
It all comes down to what you want to spend  |
Please explain exactly what handling characteristic you mean when you say "create a harsher ride". That's layman's speak that has absolutely zero value to a suspension tuner.
The small change in caster with a 2" lift will make the car more flighty and increase bump steer. Bump steer is likely what some owners are misinterpreting as a harsh ride.
With a 2" lift my pinion angle changed to about 2.4, making the caster around 3.6. Bump steer is manageable and the Jeep is very nice to turn in through twisties. Much better than the stock setup's tendency to under steer.
I've seen a JKU with a 2" Mopar lift and my JK with a 2" rancho lift. When measuring trackbar drift, neither vehicle was out by enough to warrant the cost of an adjustable track bar. The vehicles did not have a tendency to crab at all. In fact there was no noticeable difference over stock springs.
Once you over 2.5" of measurable lift, then it becomes a necessity.
For most owners a 2" lift spring usually ends up being a 1.5-1.75 actual lift once you bolt on steel bumpers, winch and load the boot up.
The Jeep
Trailhawk
