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  #57  
Old 29-05-2012
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Great, thanks. I'll pull mine off tomorrow and see if I can make it all better. My captive nuts are just fine, so shouldn't be too complicated. The reason I asked about the bushings themselves is the Raybestos ones I use are a pretty loose fit on the bolt..I might have a go at taking up some of that slack also.

Cheers and keep the good info coming mate..lot's of us are grateful.
  #58  
Old 29-05-2012
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Default pressure test

Quote:
Originally Posted by bgbazz View Post
Good find Glen...judging by the big bubble, I think he may have a problem. I just blocked off the outlet, made a rubber bung to fit the inlet..little hole to take the nozzle of my air hose, then stuck the intercooler in a bath full of water and very gently applied air..took it up to about 50psi and had no leaks at all...ended up blowing the bung out!! Mind you, it took me a day or so with the intercooler sitting inside by the heater to make sure it was dry inside before I put it back on!!
Careful, I think the manual suggests a maximum pressure test for static pressure of something like 20 psi doesnt it. But if you made it to 50 psi then its got to be pretty darn good
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Last edited by crdjon; 29-05-2012 at 02:31 AM.
  #59  
Old 29-05-2012
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Yep, you are spot on with the pressure..I only found that out later on..but, luckily it worked that one time. All is really good with the cooling/heating system and I have no problems anywhere with the plumbing. All my turbo/intercooler/PCV hoses are kept clean and dry and clamps checked for tightness and leaks every week or so. My fuel burn is still sitting just above 8.0 litres/100 so I'm pretty happy..no oil leaks or wet spots anywhere..all I do is put a bit of diesel in it every now and again. the only thing on my wish list is a speedo dial which reads in KPH instead of the dual one I have at the moment..I have trouble reading the inner scale [in red] at night.

Anyway, I appreciate your comments and input my friend..thanks.
  #60  
Old 29-05-2012
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Firstly, thanks to Glend and CRDJON for their direct assistance. After much angst, tomorrow morning I will be cutting out a section of floor to access the captive nut. I've taken the seats out and pulled up the carpet so now just need to get in and do it. This will save me taking out the upper arm again and there's no guarantee of me getting anything sorted by doing that.

I'll let you know how I go.
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  #61  
Old 29-05-2012
Auberon  Auberon is offline
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Default RE: The question Universal Joint

Consulted my li'l black book of parts I note as I read the forums:
As its become a long thread hope not repeating info that I missed.
This is noted per the posts - I have not yet needed to check them out:
Terrain Tamer - RUJ 3002 (fits F100) approx $45 (rear uni on KJ tailshaft) in particular my notes say this fits the '03 KJ
Repco - R5-13xR (some qustion re Number) -
Dana-Spicer 5-785X (Factory)
1330 (also known as 5-790X or Spicer 1310) - that onew per a post by Glend.
Toyo UJ - K513XR @ $25 @ Auto One
All greasable as far as I know except possibly the Dana-Spicer. I think they are all interchangeable.
Cheers
  #62  
Old 30-05-2012
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Got everything done and back together today. Started by cutting through the floor in the back of the car. Ended up using a cutting disc on the grinder making a series of cuts and then peeling up the flap. The captive nut was well out of alignment. I think that this may have happened when I had the bolt half in/out and moved the diff around to try and align the other side so would have effectively levered the nut. The method of holding these things is pretty lame with virtually no strength. Hopefully it's something I won't have to deal with again for the remainder of the car's life.

I ended up using Sika 227 automotive sealant and adhesive to stick the nut in place and then also to seal the series of cuts made. This entire thing is under the back floor carpet under the seat so no aesthetic issues to worry about. The Sika also seals all of the bare metal edges.

While the Sika was drying I got under the car and tightened all of the nuts and bolts and then put the seats back in. So all done now with the back suspension. Yay!

Mind you I thought while I've got the loan of another car I may as well take the drums down and get them machined so that was also done today. So next is to clean the rear brakes and put the new shoes in. When will it ever end?
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  #63  
Old 01-06-2012
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More progress.

Drove the car yesterday for the first time after putting the rear end back together. A much firmer ride and feels solid with the clunk totally gone. I'll give it a week or two and will then get back under and check everything is still tight.

The new turbo hoses are on having just fitted them about an hour ago and just did a test drive. There's certainly more boost but not back to brand new. Might still be worth getting a pressure test done at some point. Cost for the new hoses was $370 delivered from WRS on the Gold Coast. The old hoses were slick with oil and the turbo inlets were also coated. On that basis I think the Provent will be a good addition in the foreseeable future.

Tomorrow all going well the rear brakes will be taken apart, cleaned, and the new shoes fitted to go with the machined drums.

Thought I'd have a bit of a rest after that but today my wife says to me that the speedo is acting weird. I looked at it earlier and it's dropping off at times so that's probably next on the agenda. Anyone have any experience replacing speedo cables?

In the meantime a glass of red or three is in order.
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Last edited by indiedog; 01-06-2012 at 06:39 PM.
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